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I finally broke down and bought a used pallet stacker to help get the generators off the ground.

That would be very cool to have if the price was right. The neighbors will love you!

The 803a units are a real gem. Powerful, reliable, simple, efficient, quiet.

You stated anything above 2000 watts causes surging. Surging usually implies the engine RPM (and gen freq) are hunting up and down, and unstable. You also mention the overload light comes on. These are separate issues the way it's described. Surging is usually a droop adjust or sticky...

That would be great information to have. I did some napkin math and believe the isolators should be softer to reduce transmission of vibration to the skid, but that would likely come with increased vertical motion of the engine, impacting wires and hoses.

It seems like a flaw in the design to mount the engine/generator assembly on 4 points. Most automotive applications mount on three points to avoid torquing the drivetrain. Generators get away with 4 because the isolators are typically soft enough that small differences in height do not have a...

VIBRATION PROBLEM SOLVED! I had made myself a list of things to try from pop-testing the injectors, to swapping the isolators, to changing the engine out with a spare. While pulling the engine isolators, I noticed it was harder to lift the left side of the engine enough to free the isolator...

Reviving this thread: I pulled this thing apart last year and measured considerable runout at the end of the rotor shaft. Some was flexing of the [35] plate, but I fully disassembled the whole rotor, adapter plate and flywheel, measuring excessive runout on each interface. I've designed and...

There is a plug you remove on the front of the engine and an adjuster underneath. Page 4-16 and 4-17, droop adjustment. Increasing the droop will make the generator more stable. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachments/tm-9-6115-641-24-old-pdf.888627/

I made a couple of holddowns out of some 1-inch 6061-T6 aluminum angle. I heated the ends with a torch to soften the temper and then flattened it with a hammer. The J-hooks came from Walmart and fit perfect.

Read the other post, but the overload light can likely be solved with Deoxit. ( I just did this today and my 802a pulls 5000 watts without issue) The surging may be a result of an over aggressively tuned droop control. This is pretty easy to adjust.

I can attest that this works. I have an 802a that could not hold any load over 500 watts without throwing an overload after 1 minute. After Deoxit'ing it , it happily pulled 5000 watts without missing a beat.

There is a wide array of types of Mil spec wire. I've purchased this style from Aircraft Spruce before https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/unshieldlwire.php The last digits are gauge and color

Every time I think about moving back to the midwest, I start thinking I need to build an underground bunker/house. Fires, tornados, ice storms, trees falling? No problem.

2x Good job being prepared!

That's a cool setup. Is there a Mxxxx designation for that setup? I thought I could do something similar by building a 7-8" tall fuel tank riser, but didn't have a burning need right now.

I picked up a Schutt LTT-HC trailer with an 803a on it. Looking at the bolt patterns and dimensions, it appears two 802 s will mount facing side-to-side, but I can't find any pictures of this config online. (Just MEP-1030s) Anyone have a photo of this setup?

Jack it up, take the tires off, no more preload.

That is really cool. It also answers a question whether the 802a/803a series can be paralleled with the right controls. Was the engine modified with an electronic governor or does it still have the OEM mechanical governor?

Nice! That is a huge reduction.