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I already did that. I need to replace all of the tires though. Different rims without the CTIS control valves. I have new tires on alloy rims. Some might support the CTIS hardware but that I'm not sure about. Do I need to plug anything off on the wheel drum?

I would like to switch out tires on my 1083. I have the CTIS controller cable unplugged because I want to run tires @70-80 lbs anyway. What do I need to do? Does CTIS only work with split rims? I have some tires on rims that have the control valve hole in the rim. I guess that is what the hole...

Yeah, the radio cable was terminated into computer type (high-voltage) pull-apart shell. Then there was a set of wires labeled TL 50. I need to TM that and see what it is and where it goes. Other than those two pair, that's about it. I need to search the forum on how members have utilized unused...

Yeah, 10/4 on that. I thought one additional valve expansion would be good but you have to build in multiple of 2 so I picked the 4 valve option. I'm going to replace the existing and go with two with the possibility of four. Here are the part numbers to complete that task. My cost was $154.00...

10/4! I ordered the AM-3224 manifold which will allow me to cluster (4) valves together. I got all the supporting hardware and gasket parts to complete a 2-3-4 solenoid valve configuration. Got to go all new, plus room for expansion. Found two pair of cut wires labeled TL50. Got to look those up...

Ok, I know which one is clutch fan valve now. I touched the bottom and released the air. Now the fan is engaged continuously. Should I replace both or will the new one stack together with the old? I don't guess I have had a cooling fan since day one? :rolleyes::unsure:

Ok, I tested everything forward and backwards and the air to the fan clutch is not releasing. I unplugged the solenoid valve while the engine is running then cut the engine to see if the clutch was engaged? Nope! The fan still spins freely until the air pressure bleeds off. Yeah, bad solenoid...

That seems to be the case. I'm going repeat the test procedures again as you have line out. After that I will start the engine and unplug the fan solenoid. So, when I start the engine for the first time this morning the fan clutch will be engaged for a minute or so until air pressure is built...

I thought I would go down the list of items you mention. The fan clutch is not locked as you mention above. It is free-wheeling despite the ignition being on or off. It will lock up when the air pressure bleeds off.

So far, I have a bad water pump and questionable thermostats to say the least. I was going to test the thermostats but the rubber seals were gone and only fragments were left. I just replaced them. I drained the coolant completely. It looks good and there is very little signs of corrosion inside...

oh, no rolling drag. Hub temps are normal. All of my radiator(s) were dirty. I washed them out before we went but that was not enough for a 99 degree day on the road. I can't say that the clutch fan roars back to life when you turn it back on? The radiator is probably full of sediment. I will...

I will follow what you have outlined above. I believe my fan is cycling but do I know that for sure? No! I have seen it idle then engage on startup while the cab is up. That doesn't mean much though... The fan off switch does work. I believe we can hear the fan fully engaged but it is nowhere...

So, it has been hot here in West Texas this summer. We traveled to Waco to pick up a 50DLA tag-along trailer. It was 95+ all the way and half of the way back ( 350/400 ) miles round trip. We kept the engine temp no > 230 degrees. Last week was hot and unusually humid for this region of the...

All of my torque rods seals on my truck are falling apart. I see grease. Are they factory greased at installation? The ball joints look tight with no play. Do I need to do anything?

Just wanted to followup on some questions that were asked that I did not cover. My LMVT 1083A1 which is the basic model from what I can tell. No recovery winch on this unit. It has a 3126 engine. 330 Hp I think. That is what the label says on the valve cover. It seem to be in pretty good shape...

Yeah, I hear you on the STE/ICE. By the time I get the lid to the thing open we have already solved the problem. I guess the fittings in the tray are probably the most useful thing but I haven't used them either. :unsure: It would be a good step-stool, or paint it red with a big alarm clock...

Okay, Thanks for all the help. To make a long story short everything is good now. The ABS light actually disappeared on the dash. Cables are marked and I know my 2 and 4 battery configurations on this truck. I made long test leads years ago when I did a M929A1 cab makeover which I will post the...

I'm going out now to do as you have explained. I have four cables but one was taped off and not in use when I purchased the truck. I will report back with results. Thank you! -jw

I will do that and post the result. I believe I have a good diagram.

Guy's I'm newbie owner of a (MTV) 1083A1. That is what the data plate has on it. I am in the process of learning all about this truck. I acquired it from a VFD. They went from a 4 battery configuration to a 2 battery config. They disconnected the NATO slave receptacle and it looks like the 12V...