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I was just thinking, one of the problems I had with this 803 was it would not shut down. We found out through this forum that the PO had wired the alternator wrong causing it to back feed S-1. Do you think that that could have fried the voltage regulator?

Thanks Kloppk, that is a lot going on, is there a procedure for checking that or should I just start checking voltages on the K-1 contacts? I'm going to double check the voltage regulator again!

Well, I was able to do some testing today, all the wires to K-1 are correct. I disconnected the wires to K-18 and I can hear K-1 clicking when I hold down S-1 and I get voltage. I tried looking at the schematics to see which wire goes back to the start circuit but I am not getting it. After the...

This weekend I'm going to check the wire numbers going to K-18 to see if they are correct, maybe the PO put something back wrong. I don't know why they would be messing with that but they did wire the alternator wrong so you never know.

I just noticed that my 803 with trailer has three ground rods attached to the left side on the unit. It's ground rods only no connectors

Ok finally got time to get a pic, here is what my trailer is

This is what I found out today, I tested K-1 with the ohm meter and the unit off, there was no continuity on either side of the three contacts. I started the unit with 120\240 selected on K-8, I test for AC voltage on K-8 and got 24.7 volts on 2 contacts. K-1 had 24.7 volts on one side of the...

I checked the plugs on the diagnostic port and they all were within the listed values. I work on checking K-1 this afternoon

Guyfang, I was checking the connections L-1, L-2, and L-3 to neutral. Do I need to disconnect all the wires to K-1 to check the relay? Also when the TM says disconnect and tag a wire how does the Military do that? Is it a numbered alligator tag or a numbered sticker?

I measured the contacts to ground K-1 had a label on the top of A-1, B-1, C-1 on the left side and A-2 B-2 C2 on the right side K-18 measured 75 volts on one side of the large wire contact, it was hard to reach and I was trying not to get the crap shocked out of me!

Ok that formatting didn't work

Here is what I tested this evening This was with unit running and holding S-1 down after start, there was no difference with AC interrupt closed or open. Without holding S-1 down the readings across terminals tested is 37 to 38 volts. K-1 120\240 Ph1 A-1...

I'm going to check it again this afternoon and make sure and also test K-1 as Guyfang suggested

I re-read the TM for checking the voltage regulator and from what I got out of it is that if the readings are what they say it should read the regulator is bad. So if I got none of those readings on the TM then the regulator is good. Is that correct?

I'll review the TM again, I missed what you said about the regulator being bad.

Gutfang you were right about the exciter you have to hold the S-1 switch, the diagnostic diagram doesn't say that but I'll correct my copy. I switched to three phase and there was no voltage on L-1, L-2, or L-3

I went through the TM check for the voltage regulator and everything was good. The fuse on the fuse mod was good. I checked the voltages from the diagnostic port and I found no voltage from the DC exciter field positive or negative. Don't know what that means or if it's related.

I got 120 volts on L-3 to the neutral and 120 on L-1 to the neutral.

Ok, I have no power at the lugs, here's what I have done: this unit is a tier 2 reset with 600 hrs, has fuse mod and just quit putting out power Unit running Am/Vm switched to L3,L1 Single phase Reconnection switch 120/240 1 phase flipped ac interrupt switch to closed, green light comes on Hertz...

It' amazing what we can do over the internet! thanks again for everyone's help!