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Absolutely agree. The guys were talking about 500W loads, or about 4.2A.

You're the first person I've heard of that still uses X-10 -- that's awesome. I've moved on from the analog X-10 comms to digital. Glad to hear that it's still working great for you. That clicking noise you hear is a relay -- that's what you want. The other type is normally a fast switching...

Also, I would look into WiFi or PLC (Power Line Carrier), sometimes called UPB (Universal Powerline Bus) smart appliance devices. You can use Alexa, Google voice, or just your phone to turn on a plug that's attached to your block heater. Just make sure it's an appliance (or relay) device and not...

So where do I get the most cost-effective block heater for my 3126?

You shouldn't have to do any crawling. As I explained last week, if you grab a lead wire (any insulated wire or even an extension cord) and a multimeter, you can get this figured out in less than 10 minutes. Set multimeter on continuity or resistance test and go to town with it. With all...

Yes. 2 are 24V. I imagine that one for the starter and the other one into the cab. 1 is 12v 1 is gound.

24V is the shortest wire, there are 2 of them. 12V is the next longest The ground is the longest. I say that, but take this with a grain of salt. If someone modified them, all bets are off. If you have a zip tie holding one of the longer cables outside of the box and making it appear to be...

From the picture in this eBay listing, and I'm not saying it's correct, it appears that the 280mm is extended. I can throw this into Fusion360 and extrapolate the height based on the known 12mm bottom thread if you want me to.

NOTE!!! some batteries are configured with the ground on the left terminal whereas others are on the right! I picked 24F because the size is right and the terminals line up. You do NOT have any room to stretch the 24V cable coming from outside without modifying things. Notice 124R is on the...

That will leave you with one final cable coming from outside the battery box, and that's your 12V. Use one of the short cables to interconnect the two batteries and tie that 12V cable to either battery. Sorry, no picture of this 'jumper' cable section. With just 2 batteries the wiring is super...

then you have the longest cable, that's your ground. You also have the other Nato slave cable that attaches to the most right terminal on the 2nd battery.

Basically, the 2 shortest cables from the left back is your 24V. So the Nato slave connecting cable (red tab) ties to that as well.

The 24F fit like a glove -- like a glove I said. I'm going to have to put a piece of wood or plastic or something to prevent them from sliding towards the outside when offroading, but in town, there is no way they'll move on their own. I haven't taken a final picture of everything wired, but...

Ask and you shall receive. I replaced them with just 2 24F batteries from WalMart. Let me know if you want final installation of those as well.

Dave filmed his installation in 3116 a few months ago:

I know, right? That's why I've asked him to build one for me. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

$200 + $40 for shipping from Italy. Looks like lead time is about 2-3 weeks.

After 6 months and 12 days of waiting, I finally got my M1083A1! Now that I know that it runs, it's time to get it all sorted out. The CTIS controller is missing from my truck and my question is -- can I run it that way while I'm waiting to hear back from the Arduino guy? What happens to...

Thanks for the writeup and the videos.

What size cable did you go with? I assume you're using the 24V Stallion? If I'm reading specs correctly 210amp is the max draw on it.