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Try moving your idle up or down just a bit. A little change makes a big difference with all the rattle noises inside the truck.
If all your filters are newish and your Injection Pump timing is close. Then idle or the IP itself are about all that is left if you have no weird knocks or smoke of...
A few things came to mind while reading your post:
How old are your batteries and are they fully charged? Mine only squeal on start up if they have been sitting a long while, very, very long glow time or if I left the lights on.
Try tightening the belts just a bit more. They stretch out the...
The starter relay under the dash has a ground, 24 volt constant, 24 volt switched to the starter and 12 switched with starter position of the key only to connect the 24 volt stuff.
You need 12 volts switched with just the key on and staying on the entire time the key is on run, not just start.
I love the 4L80E in my 3/4 ton CUCV clone Suburban. However, I learned after 2 weeks in the mountains a year ago that there are troubles with engine braking and the 4L80E. There is an over running band that even when new can smoke itself in a few minutes. I have yet to find any rebuild or race...
80 or 90 amps in my mind needs 00 gauge or so wire from the battery to keep it safe and cool. Then use a relay that can handle at least 100 amps continuously to make it switched. Using an empty switched spot in the fuse panel to activate the relay.
One of the funny looking plugs in the top corner of the fuse box is switched. Put a volt meter on them and see which is switched. The plug that goes in there is a one off design for the rear AC on the Suburbans.
3rd on the TH400 is 1:1. I don’t think that can be changed.
What is the gear vendor ratio?
A google says .78. That would drop you to around 2400-2500 rpm at 60 mph with 32” tires. What is the actual measurement of your rear tires?
How are you getting your speed reading?
What gives your tach...
It probably is from one of the cross over or block off plates as suggested above. Next, if they are all dry I suggest looking at the heater hoses at the firewall. If they are good and the valley is dry. Head gaskets are about all that is left near the rear of the engine.
Your choice on the wiring but a M35 front harness works very well on a M715. There will be some extra blinker wire stuffed behind the headlights. But, it works.
The stock rear bumper is very flimsy as you have already figured out. I suggest starting from scratch or some kind of swing away mount that slides onto the shackle hook mounts. The shackle mounts are the most rigid and reinforced thing back there. Your add on receiver hitch is probably just as...
2500 rpm at the drive shaft is about all most NP200 transfer cases can stand without overheating. 4th gear in the T98 is 1:1 so 2500 engine rpm will get you 48 mph with stock 9.00-16 tires. The 11.00-16 Michelin’s make 2500 rpm 52 mph.
Basically, you will get the same road speed as the bigger...
The return lines could be removed and the engine will run just fine. It will make a huge mess though.
Putting a clear hose for the top of the IP return will let you watch for air bubbles to verify air is getting into the IP fuel supply. But, since you are running dry you already know that...
This is going to read as condescending. I don’t mean it that way. I just don’t know how to write it polite.
How do you know the rpm is increasing when at operating temperature? Feel, sound or actual tachometer?
If it really is increasing, then independent of a binding accessory such as a...
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