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So far, everything "aftermarket" on my truck is marine and works wonderfully. Alternator, 2 wiring panels, aluminized wires, everything. I can only speak for my m35, but a lot of the systems on it are very similar in design to a marine layout, and just about everything on it is ip67 compliant...
Hello all, thinking about doing wheels and tires this spring, thought about the mrap wheels but I want to keep the duals. I found a couple build your own kits, but I'm nowhere near skilled enough with a welder. Are there some hidden wheel sites that I'm missing, or are my options that limited?
This is what I'll be running for auxillary switches. Each little button is a circuit breaker for each switch, they are 12/24v capable, marine rated, and illuminated. I can't recall the manufacturer atm but as soon as I look at it again I'll let you know
just a couple pics of my box setup. Glad I've got you guys, the system is way more intimidating than intensive, but then from what I've read the entire truck is. Cleaned up the wires too, no more 12v trailer lights half rigged in with a fuse..... Thank you everyone for the help
Thank you, I'll be digging through my battery collection and see what I come up with. Hypothetically though if I ran a 1010cca first in series and a 980 second, would that balance until I get an equalizer?
Wonderfully enough, my dogbone has been replaced with an interrupt switch, mounted in what I'm guessing is an A3 plastic box (this is my first MV and previous owner didn't go into much detail). The switch works, so when it's off, the batteries are isolated the same way as if the dogbone were...
Anyone have the TM (if one exists) for the proper battery terminal/battery removal process for the A2? I have searched my manual and many threads on here, plus web, and nothing.
That's a lot simpler than having to isolate. Contradicts everything I read, but if you never had a problem with it, when the time comes I will install them un-isolated and see what happens. Did you ever have a problem with the 24v system not energizing?
Guessing that's what happened here, haven't tested the generator in the box yet. Only thing "wrong" with this setup is the alternator doesn't self energize, it has to be stimulated by crossing the poles with a small wire and arcing. Once that happens though it functions properly until the truck...
Ok, so after further reflection, (and much shame) I discovered that I don't have an alternator/generator combo, just an alternator who's voltage is yet to be determined! The generator is in a box of extras that came with it. Soooo I guess as I'm going to run it til I need new batteries, then...
Lots of ideas, but how viable are they? That's the question. Simple questions first, what is the air temp where you are, has fuel pressure been verified by gauge after the last fuel filter, and how long is it cranking before you let it stop?