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Replaced the GPs, crimped on new connectors, put in my spin on fuel filter assembly, bypassed the GP resistor, ran 4GA directly to the GP solenoid, then a 8ga jumper from the solenoid to the 12V feed, wired a relay to the electronic fuel pump I installed (relay switched by fuel shutoff solenoid...
Has anyone gotten 'restored' plates?
They say I can use a plate for that model year, which means I know I can get an '84 plate, but what about the older all green plates that were still in use in the 80's?
I was planning on using it for my M1010, which is going to be a weekend vehicle/camping rig anyway, so I can surely justify it as a 'display' vehicle when I'm camping...
Cheap tabs, don't need to be renewed, no front plate requirement...
All huge bonuses..
Not gonna be used as a daily...
Got all my parts for spin on fuel filter (see Here)
Couple days ago I soaked my pistons in MMO/ATF, to see if it could free a possible stuck piston ring (M1010 had been sitting for 6+ years, new batteries, and still really slow cranking)... Cranked it, let it sit some more... seemed to be...
Pulled up the TM.. located the fuel lines...but without getting under there and tracing all the lines, I can't tell what line is return and which one is outbound.
Any tricks or tips?
I'm gonna be putting in an electric pump..and the spot where there is about 8" of 3/8 flex line about 3' from...
Are you sure you used the right leads on the right contacts?
The only way to get - voltage, if you're doing it properly, is to have the BLOCK +, and the leads grounded... Highly unlikely.
I wouldn't do any less than 4ga, and that's pushing it, IMO.
You're pulling 100A plus from those GPs, they're 200W ea, which means 1600w for 8, thats 133A @ 12V...
Make sure you upgrade the wiring going to the solenoid. The factory 10ga or whatever that goes to the stud for the 12V systems is NOT sufficient to handle the added loads of the GPs.
My M1009 went on a road trip into the mountains...
I would normally agree.. BUT...
These items have been shown to reduce wear and increase lubricity, or, in some cases, INCREASE wear.
TWC3 is an oil that is NOT marketed as a diesel additive, but it works surprisingly well as such.
Everything is made to a certain specification, that is to say...
HUGE +1
like $12.. supposed to be 1 oz per gallon, roughly... I ran out, and I can tell the difference between the 2, with and without.... night and day...
Got a M1010 with 18K on it from auction, it was driven in but had been sitting for 6+ years....Had about 3/4 tank, I checked the fuel.. No water, looked good, smelled good.. then I dumped another 6 or 7 gallons in to fill it up, then added some misc additives.....cranked it over.. it wanted to...
SignalMaster mounted on top. Combination of tint and blocked view made me mount it there...
Relocated Aux brake/turn as well.. no pic yet
Added 2 LED lights to the rear, brighter than my headlights, and $50 a pair... holy crap..
Side by side comparison. Off and on. No flash, same exposure...
I'm thinking of custom making either OD, or NATO camo see through window decals, like used on the back of truck windows, for the rear and side windows...
It'd basically continue the NATO camo (or solid OD) to make it look like one piece, Ie you won't really see the windows...
Thoughts?
I tied it to a Toyota that had blown apart its thermostat housing... Towed it off the highway into a parking lot..
Turns out, the guy was going to rehab... He'd been sober 2 days and a friend from church was supposed to be meeting him there, she picked him up from the parking lot instead...
He...
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