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Wheel bearings! Those poor wheel bearings. Have you pulled the lock out hubs off to see if you have grease or bearing dust inside there? Read the section in the -10 manual about what to do on the truck after you have driven it in unusual conditions. Pretty much anytime you get any liquid...

Start with the basics. Make sure both batteries are fully charged and load tested. Just because they are new doesn't mean they are good. Remove all 4 cables and clean them. Along with the battery terminals. Then see what you get. It reads like your front battery is low or dead and your...

You most likely do have a bad fuse. Or, a fuse not making contacts with the fuse holder. Have you removed and cleaned all the fuse contacts? The best starting point is the Techical manual. Have you looked through the CUCV TM's under the resource tab at the top of the page? The TM ending...

I think if you remove the starter motor and postition the one you want to work on over there. You should be able to get better access. I just looked at an engine here in my class and you will have about 1-2 inches of room away from the pan and as far forward as the motor mount to get a drill...

There is a direct mechanical link between the pedal and the master cylinder. If the pedal is stuck to the floor, the master is also stuck down. When you said "bleed the system" I assume you were talking about the power steering system and that your brake fluid wasn't messed with and is still...

It seems you have multiple issues. Fix the steering box mount first. Then, with the engine off and the truck on a concrete surface. Have your wife turn the wheel 45˚ each direction over and over again while you lay down there and put your hand on every single connection in the steering...

The TM says the M1009 should not be pulling an empty M101 trailer. Much less with a S-250 loaded on it. If you haven't taken your pintle hitch mount apart and inspected/replaced all the fasteners in there. I would strongly tell you don't even try. Even after making sure it will hold. You...

I hope everyone got home safe. I know Pistolnut and I made it. Thanks again to all for a great time and super fellowship. Here are a few of the pictures I got yesterday.

Mark, if you want a real one. I will have someone to introduce you to tomorrow at the show. He has one to sell. I will be there in the M715.

Sounds like a plan. We are all loaded up and ready to go.

Yep, time for a transmission rebuild by what you described.

I drove the repowered M715 home from work today and all seems set for this weekend. Colton also has RED just about ready to go. The track meet should be done around 2100 Friday. That will get us on the road around 2230 and at BVORR around mid night. I am going to ask Clint to save us some...

Read the manuals, but that bottom fuse is what controls the 24V side of things and will probably be your best starting point. I had one in there that was broken, not blown inside the plastic leg. Drove me nuts trying to find what was causing power loss at odd times.

Two months have gone by and an another update is past due. Colton spent a good bit of his spring break sanding RED down and making all the interior panels the proper color. I took off a few days to help him paint it Friday. Then, we spent most of today putting it all back together. Our goal...

I am not sure exactly what sound you are looking for. I just put a Cherry Bomb welded muffler on my 6.2 powered M715 last week. Here is a video of how it sounds. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPL5pTNCGhs I think it is more tug boat than any thing else. You wanted suggestions, so here is an...

You might be able to come in between the inner fender and the frame or, from the bottom instead of pulling a bunch of parts.

You need two special tools. A steering wheel puller to pull the wheel and a spring compressor to push down the lock plate so the C clip can be removed. The manuals don't really show this procedure. However, there have been several threads about it in the past. Look at the bottom of this page...

I used a set of wire cutters. What everybody used to call dikes.

Those lines from Badger Diesel are great. They will leak or at least seep if you don't do a square cut and push them all the way on. After about 10 times pulling an end of and putting it back on. Cut off the last 1/2 inch or so and all will be good again.

I just got an email from a guy who does not get on the internet much. He is looking for a NP200 transfer case for his M37. He is part of the re enactment at the show. Anybody have one for sale, that can give it a ride to the Rally and how much? Thanks.