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Thanks for doing this again Lincoln. I have kept that weekend clear just for this event.

The plug for the 3 lever is different with blinkers in the system. That and the plugs for the signal arm and the blinker box are really what you need. Then of course a diagram showing how they all fit. PM me or send an email to: barrman@m715zone.com and I will send you what I think is a...

One more odd ball forgotten small diesel to throw at you. Chevy had a 4.3 diesel in the 1987 or so for their front wheel drive cars. I looked into them a few years ago and stopped when I found my CJ-3A had a bunch of cracks in the frame.

The trouble shooting section of the -20 manual takes you through how to test the light. The sensor is on the drivers side front cylinder head.

Check the white wire going under the tcase shifter. It is probably grounding out.

The ground tab on the front marker lights probably broke off. You can bend it in to touch the bulb case, but putting in a new socket is best.

My 1952 published TM for the M35 trucks has the lights as in my picture. Not all of them though. I think there are at least 4 different rear light arrangements over the years on just the M35 trucks. There are no numbers or other markings on mine, but I am pretty sure each of the 12 or so...

Just to make you feel even better than the advice already given. Chevy eliminated that bolt behind the #8 cylinder with the 2000 model year engine. Everything since doesn't have that mount even there anymore. You are fine.

As stated above, the 105 is the proper trailer for the M35. It has an empty weight of 2700 pounds, has the same rims and tires as the M35 and has air brakes that hook up to the M35. They are great behind a M35 and honestly, too big for even a modern 1 ton civilian truck. The M101 has an...

The plug is at the end of both pigtails. Just out of the picture. It is kind of funny this came back up. The old volt meter would hover in the lower half of the green. I swapped it out because in the summer when the glow plugs don't work very hard. The needle would stay just above the...

double post, sorry.

A frame mounted receiver hitch and the weight you mention should work just fine. As long as you are not in a hurry and plan ahead for braking. Many people have done similar sized loads with no issue. However, if you plan to do it often. Add a transmission cooler to help the TH400 live long...

Are you sure it is getting into 3rd gear above 35 mph? Driving nicely to 55 and then maintaining 55 should give you 20 plus mpg if everything is working right. Parking brake stuck on?

The kits available are for an entire rebuild. The -20 walks you through the entire process and it is pretty easy to do. I would suggest doing everything so you know for sure you didn't miss something. You do have the long style older one, right? That is the version the kits are for. I...

The stock master is easily rebuilt with cheap parts. Replacement stock masters are pretty cheap as well. However, if you are going to be doing anything besides shows, parades and just driving slow on weekends. I would suggest a dual line master as mentioned in the thread George linked to...

I am also running 10 11.00-20 tires on my 1952 REO Gasser. I will have to go look at my data plate on the dash, but I think any octane gasoline down to 75 or so will work. Anything you run without ethanol is a great idea. Don't worry about the octane basically. With the stock 5 speed non...

I also daily drive a 6.2 powered CUCV. So does my wife. However, I work on them a good bit and did extensive electrical, brake and fuel system work before putting them into service. Without a back up vehicle of some kind, I would suggest something newer.

It seems that if the pitman arm didn't get changed out, what else did not get done? I would suggest you read through the CUCV forum and you will find dozens of threads asking the same question as you.

I think it would depend on the size of your slide shaft. I do realize the ones that will be swollen are probably #5 and #7 which means you can't do much. That situation I think needs the real tool or maybe a vice grip to let a pry bar grab onto. My back up idea to the one used was to take a...

The air tools don't really help much in this case. Only about half the manifold bolts aren't studs with injector lines, fuel lines or something like that on them that need to be moved out of the way. Then of course, none of the IP mounts, injection lines or timing gear fasteners can be done...