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Amazon.com has them as well.

The IP return check valve is on top of the pump. It is a brass fitting with a black hose attached to it. A red squeeze clamp holds the hose on. Just use pliers to pull off the clamp, remove hose, use a 9/16" socket to pull off the fitting. Then look inside the fitting and see if you can see...

That is funny about the drive thru. I don't even try to order with it running anymore. That is probably why most of us have had starter troubles at banks and fast food places.

If you don't have a way to jack up the frame, then jack up the drivers tires and put a block under the tire or jack stand under the axle. That should give you enough droop on the passenger side to get it out.

The only place to put a Zerk fitting is where it would interfere with the tires going on and off. Basically, if you have good inner and outter seals. The grease in the bearings should last a long time.

Do as suggested. Change out all 3 fuel filters, make sure the in tank fuel pump is working, make sure the fuel line under the radiator isn't flattened out from a fork lift and change or at least check your air filter. Then put a few tons of stuff in the back and go drive it with a fresh tank...

I just looked in the "book." Actually a computer now. 8.0 hours is the alloted time to remove and replace a 6.2 in a 1984 Blazer. At $1700 to do the work, he wants to charge you $200 per hour and the cost of coolant, oil and filter. Find somebody else to do it. Actually, anybody that has...

Boxcar was at my house last night as we traded some parts. He is doubtfull about being able to make it. Planting time has him pretty busy on the weekends.

A filter changed help mine with the smoother shifts as well. I have a 1/3 mile dirt road to go down for access to my house. Before the filter change, the truck would stay in second gear as idled down the dirt road at about 10 mph. There is a slight hill to go up and down on this road. After...

The tan paint will pick up every single dirty finger print you touch it with. It won't come out either. I know you are moving up in size with the 1009 while most of actually are moving down when we get one. However, don't be too eager to start towing big heavy loads with it. The gearing was...

I didn't see it mentioned above. It it was, sorry I missed it. Try to do a coolant system pressure test. Pump it up to 14 or so psi and then see if it stays. If it does then you are back to cap and thermostat. If it leaks down, then listen through the oil fill, oil dip stick, air intake...

The parts are out there and not all that much. However, as written above. A pump needs to be calibrated once rebuilt. That means a calibration stand and that means you end up at somebody who does these things everyday. Your savings will not be much once you have to pay them to calibrate a...

Using a drill to turn the speedometer between oilings is a good way to only have to do it once. Glad you got it going right.

You aren't seing any fuel where? Fuel filter inlet, fuel filter bleed, fuel filter outlet, injectors?

Yep as stated above. If you really want to scare yourself. Pull the bed and drive around looking back at the axles. They move a lot just going straight. Add a little bit of terrain and a few turns and you will want to meet the engineer who designed the set up.

The big post touching the small post on the starter will cause it to spin. It is real easy to have one of the wires on a post move and touch the other wires on other post while tightening the nuts down. That would be my complete answer if you hadn't done the relay swap. Since the relay could...

That is funny Sam. Now, the issue that seems to be hot in this thread about references to the technical manuals. The original poster of this thread has been here at least 5 months. Had several threads over that time about his electrical, charging and I thing starting system. I know the -20...

Yes, clean and lightly hone the cylinders, clean again and slap it together with the new cups and the old spring.

The -10 manual has all of that as well as the data plate on the dash.

Put the negative lead of your volt meter on the negative of the rear battery. Then check the power lead on the passenger alternator. Should be 12.6 volts or so with everything off and 14.4 volts with it running. The wiring system really is pretty easy to figure out. Once the light bulb in...