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Oh don't be fooled it's not "like new" but it's clear enough that the individual LEDs can be made out at the appropriate distances to be effective. This meets the requirements for the fixtures, and saves me putting $100 worth of NOS blackout lights on (and messing with more plugs and wiring)...
Remember that when sizing your negative wire, you need to account for the loads and sources that pass through it (refer back to the loop drawings above). It'll need to support the proposed 24V alt AND the proposed 12V alt. (much thicker than either positive wire).
It is interesting to see how...
Didn't get much done today - got home from work and due to the cloud cover it got dark REALLY fast. Put in the new light fixture housings and LED bulbs in the front fenders and taillights, front fender fixtures were very bleached:
I'll have to take a picture of the rear fixtures when it's...
Isolating a ground without factory parts is possible, but you need to know how alternators are built.
The portions of the circuits that need to be isolated are:
The stator windings
The diode trio pairs (what takes the "alternating" power created by the stator and turns it into DC
The...
Does it have the original box-type fuel filter on the firewall (prone to leak and losing prime)? Do you know if you have return fuel from the IP (shows that the lift pump is functioning)? Does the Injection Pump's (IP's) solenoid click when you plug unplug/plug-in the pink wire with the...
Bought a new glow plug card from HillBillyWizard (SS Vendor), will try to get that system back to normal, 28MT gear reduction starter in 24V trim, and I'm going to look at the 27SI CUCV alternator math1960 left in the back seat for me. If I have to rebuild that, I will. I picked a replacement...
Autozone if you have one in your area, will let you borrow one if you have a credit card. I've borrowed a gear puller from them before - as Ahab says, you will appreciate the difference between the right way and the hard way 2cents
That's weird, most GMs I drove had a round body key and a...
Got the tailgate crank and lock in, and lubed up the rear window regulator assembly:
This one has a unique key, not the common key:
Popped in new lock cylinders for the Driver's side (which was REALLY worn out):
And passenger's side:
I'm keeping the original cylinders should some future...
As I posted earlier, I'm trying to keep it original or OEM CUCV. Any modifications away from something OEM will either be MIL-SPEC or removable/reversible.
Yes for the short term, I ordered the missing wing vent latch last night and I'm changing out the lock cylinders to secure the truck...
There are only a few little rock strikes where rust has formed, the "rust" the shipping company saw was actually NATO 3-color showing through the 383 green. Need to repair the glow plug system, there is a toggle switch now... everything else works. :) No leaks [thumbzup]
Delivered today on schedule, no new damage to report, the only detail I missed in my photo/video inspection with math1960 is the passenger wing vent latch missing.
Seems like everything I expected to have working, was. Window gaskets and some trim needs to be replaced, horn button needs to be...
I picked my sunglasses carefully - Uvex Tomcat. Buy in bulk from Grainger or another industrial supply company and they are about $5 a pair. Anti-fog, good side protection, UVA/UVB blocking, and they look more expensive than they are (I hum along to "cheap sunglasses" alot :) )...