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My guess would be the fuel shut-off solenoid is sticking a bit.

There are kits to replace conventional tubes to LED bulbs. I believe that they replace the ballast, etc. Here is a quick link to some of the bulbs, don't have time to try to look for more at the moment...

Why not just upgrade with the new LED replacements for fixtures like that?

When it is warm and won't start, have you tried pouring cool water over the IP? I've read of others having an issue with the IP is hot, though I think that usually points to the fuel shutoff solenoid. You also mentioned that the return line check valve on the IP was dirty. This could be a sign...

nopics

How was the GP relay tested? What were the readings, and where were they taken? I would also test the glow plugs, just because they are relatively new, doesn't mean one, or more, couldn't have failed already.

A new, updated design, glow plug controller card made by SS member AntennaClimber...

The power steering pump provides the power assist for the brakes. There could be a leak where they come together at the master cylinder.

That is exactly what I meant... that the feedline to the 12v buss is *not* connected between the two batteries, but at the end of the chain, thus getting 24v...

My guess is that the 12v feed that goes between bat 1 and bat 2 is connected to the wrong place.

Not exactly the same, as that was a pre '84 Blazer, where there is no metal roof or b-pillars. I'd imagine that the M1009 would hold up a little bit better.

marks86, do you have a thread here on that conversion? If not, could you start a new thread and do one, with lots of pictures, etc? Would love to hear how this is working out for you, and what all was involved. Thanks!

Some have swapped the o-ring, others have just plugged the hole. It is not needed, unless you have the STE/ICE diagnostic equipment.

Mine does. Push in, turn back, power to wiper fuse.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?50551-CUCV-Switches-Diodes-Relays&p=575716&viewfull=1#post575716

On the volt gauge, just remove the resistor from the back of it. It is only needed to make a 12v gauge work in a 24v system. I don't know the details on the wiring for the conversion, but the gauge gets its hot feed from the 24v portion of the fuse box. You'd have to compare the wiring diagram...

Bad diode on the horn relay, would be my guess...

I think he is looking at the pink/blk power feed to the coil of the relay.

Probably not. Try a google search and see if an equivalent comes up, otherwise see what others here are using. I have an '09, so have not needed to look into it much.