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Well I respectfully disagree with their statement that break in oil is a gimmick. It lacks friction modifiers to allow slight wearing of components so they all seat properly. But I am glad you got an answer on hours to break in.

Let us know what they say

Rated power for a 3TNV84T... it should do 12K without an issue mechanically. It is possible that they sized the fan in the MEP platform for 10KW power though (which is why the AMMPS is so quick to throw the code for making too much power). If you were drawing too much, the system should have...

I know the 100hr mark is for the larger 80X machines that are rebuilt with Lister Petter engines in them. If you are getting conflicting info, you can always reach out to Yanmar directly and see what they have to say. Thats what I would do here. https://www.yanmar.com/us/support/contact/

From this book (which covers the L70): https://www.nuvair.com/manuals/Yanmar-LV-100-Use-Manual.pdf What 'manual' are you referencing that says 100hrs?

If you want OEM - https://www.sleeman-hawken.com

The TM which contains this info is https://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachments/tm-9-6115-642-24p-pdf.716279/ for an 803A, or https://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachments/tm-9-6115-641-24p-old-pdf.888628/ for an 802A. Both TMs will feature manufacturer part numbers, which will cross to identical NSNs...

This is the supplier. Give them a ring and the number and see if they will sell to you, or at least direct you to where you can purchase https://hutchinsonai.com

Just to confirm your question was answered directly (it was over the replies that followed), but that's the diagnosis steps for the engine only. If you take the sender and all other accessories out of the picture... its a mechanical oil pump. If you have pressure issues in this engine, with that...

So in basic terms, there are two basic sets of manuals. There is a set for the entire machine, and a set for the engine only. Ending -10 are the 'Operating' instructions - how it functions, what each part does, etc. Good one to read through as an owner Ending -24 are the 'Technical...

From what Dewie has told me in the past, the engines may have shipped in with break in oil... but as soon as they were factory received they dumped for fleet oil and out the door. I assume its at the depot level only that the reman engines get the break in. I assume field work does not receive...

If you are only getting 19V, I suspect its bad batteries. If the alternator was output tested and is shown as working, its your cells as its highly unlikely (though not impossible) that you have line loss on the DC circuit. I would take the batteries out and have them load tested at an auto...

Hit the -24TM for the machine to start testing (the zero dollar first approach): LOW OIL PRESSURE Step 1. Check for improper lubrication oil. a. If proper lubrication oil, do Step 2. b. If improper, drain oil and refill with proper lubrication oil (TABLE 2–3), Replace oil filter in accordance...

Here is what I go on, that tells me the reset units do in fact get break in oil. The tag hanging from the E-stop is typically torn off, but only the zip tie remains.

Isn't it great to know the truth?

Yeah you are right, the amperage is much higher on the alternator itself. Maybe @Dewie38 can shed some light on the topic.

I believe the regulator on these alternators is rated at 4A, so if you use a NOCO 5A x 2 Bank unit... it should suffice to keep the machine along in a dead alternator situation https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G3STB1N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thats what I use. I...

This what you saw? https://www.ebay.com/itm/202054904201?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&srsltid=AfmBOoqUnP7iRvTEwtq6DzuNww_6lJBCARrh_d2Rk99hMZIq4l-tdspMNPw

It was that high sustained because your starting cells (ie batteries) needed it. I would keep an eye on them, if they aren't new.