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And done! Very stoked! Finally feeling like I'm actually getting closer to having a box on board.

If you're ever passing through again, drop a line. Meanwhile, progress has been made: Still working on the right beam but should be firmly attached soon (dinner break). With the back located, I can get on with drawing up the front plates and getting them cut out and installed. Then it's...

I don't see mentioned anywhere that you caged the brakes. Did you? If not, you're never getting them off. Edit- just re-read: does the air in(?) the gladhand release the drums?

Getting back to making progress... Drew up a plate to use the shock mount holes to secure a subframe mount. Had one laser cut to validate layout. Everything lined up but needed a little more material up top. Rev 2 went in for manufacture, but here is rev 1 in place: And with the rail...

Actually, while spankybear typed MPH, I am starting to think Third read MPG. That makes sense in context. I haven't driven enough to get real MPG data but I am more than willing to bet I am still well under double digits with my truck even as just a chassis. I would be ecstatic if I got 10...

Disregarding the mileage prognostications, getting 15 MPH more is exactly what happens when you re-gear. You may or may not see mileage improvement, but you will rev lower at a given speed, or (as stated by spankybear), go faster for a given RPM. That part is just math. My speedo reads ~48...

My 1088 had them installed when I purchased it, so no "before" experience. It does feel "good" right now with the 3.07's in it. I have been up to 73 mph per phone GPS but only briefly, and still had some throttle travel left to give. I have no intention to run there but wanted to see how it...

I think it's right there in the picture.

Need intake parts? I pulled my OEM and went DIY. They are just hanging around taking up space.

Try Martin: http://fmtvsales.com/

If you have a minute to measure, what's the length of your overhang?

You may want to re-terminate the cable(s) as well. The ends are looking seriously corroded: Might be just as bad for a short distance under the insulation?

Thankfully I only allowed myself to work on one at a time. Happy to prevent a headache for someone else!

Yes. In all seriousness, just look at the threads closely. You can see the direction they will push the lug nut if you take a moment and think about it. This is what one looks like when you don't look closely enough before you apply 1600 ft-lb's by hanging off the end of an 8' breaker bar...

Looking at it recently, the FWD heat exchanger appears to be liquid-to-liquid. The failure mode of that would be clogged/compromised passages or reduced flow through the cooler (bad pump? although you would likely have other problems if that was the case). I haven't stressed mine at all but it...

Where did you get yours weighed? Mine is 9,200# on the front axle at a state DOT scale. I know I have stripped a few things off but I can't imagine it's >2,000# of stuff specifically from the front axle.

Who did that for you? Are they a national chain? Would love to get mine dynamically balanced. I'm near Portland, OR and no one I've called has the capacity to do this.

You do realize what forum you're in, right? This is like asking crackheads on a crack forum if crack is fun. I second the recommendation to go sit in one and/or drive it. It's probably the most imperative thing to do. I was somewhat in your shoes... check the first post in my build thread...

Thanks Steven! I think it came out pretty well in general and fantastically for an amateur. I only bought SPST and SPDT so far, but if you Google-fu 44x 22 mm or 1.74 x .87 in hole switches, you'll find many options. I found plenty of options out there, for multi-pole and lit up indicators...

Had a pretty productive weekend. Made an interior for the cab: Painted the engine blanket with rubberized paint (looks great but the verdict is still out on if it will fully cure) Headliner looks pretty good: I also made an overhead console as well (sorry for crappy pic): The center...