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Oh, I thought you were talking about main fuel screw. Did you look at the LDS trouble shooting manual? Link: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?116454-LDS465-1-Multifuel-Engine-Troubleshooting-Manual&p=1460149&viewfull=1#post1460149 As I recall it was not too hard to turn mine.

YOU DO NOT TURN THE SCREW. You will break a zizwheel or a kanibling pin or some such thing inside there. Please search turn up fuel.

Read carefully. Does not say MADE IN THE USA. ASSEMBLED in USA does not always mean MADE in the USA. Assembled here with China made parts. Or from any other country for that matter.

Actually, I line reamed the two hinge halves to .3135", then on the middle piece, I reamed that to .3438"(for a snug fit), and installed a 1/32" SS sleeve (A286 material), wall thickness .016", with epoxy primer. Then I reamed that to .3135" also. So with the bolt snug, only wear is on the SS...

I did the same but used SS GR 8 bolts.

Just for info, in NC: "Timber rattlers are listed as a “special concern species” in North Carolina, which means they are likely to become a threatened species within the foreseeable future. Under North Carolina law, they can only be killed in self-defense and it’s illegal to possess the snake or...

Actually, the TM says:Turn wheel, tighten inner adjusting nut (3) 50 lb-ft (68 N•m), then back off nut (3) 1/16 to 1/4 turn. 3. Install new key washer (2) and outer adjusting nut (1). Tighten nut (1) 100–200 lb-ft (136–272 N•m). It's all about feel. You don't want the bearings too tight...

Ok, a pic might help. If it's #24 in this figure, it's a standard NPT thread pipe plug. TM 9-2320-361-24P, fig. 27 NSN is 4730-00-018-9566, which crosses to MS21336-2, which is a 1/8", 27 TPI pipe plug. So, if not that than please post a pic. of the location of your plug.

You need to read up on what the FDC does/did so you can understand where your at now. Here's some to start. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?11045-Power-difference-after-FDC-bypass https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?6100-LDT-465-1D-FDC-Bypass...

Not near my Deuce right now, but I think it's 1/8" NPT. Here's some pipe fitting info. If "A" measures .405" it's 1/8" NPT, 27 TPI, hole drill size is 11/32" (.3438") If "A" measures .540" it's 1/4" NPT, 18 TPI, hole drill size is 7/16" (.4375") If "A" measures .675" it's 3/8" NPT, 18 TPI...

You would think so, but I've seen it done. Easily crossed. They're not not idiot proof.

Welcome aboard. If it's a general restoration question, then yes. If it's a Deuce specific question, then the Deuce Forum. Try to at least search your question first, if you can't find your specific answer, see if there's already a thread that has to do with it, and post your question there. Jeff

Prayers for his family and friends.

Nice.

:ditto:

Be sure to remove any of the sharp edges on any gouges, especially on raised up sharp edges. I would also still treat them with a rust reformer such as OSPHO. While the rust appears gone, it's never 100% gone, it's in the pores. You can see it in the rust pits. I think they'll be fine...

Check the wire connector at the oil pressure sender. Loose or off will give the the pegged reading. As far as air, sounds like bad gauge.

Oil is electric. Air is hard line. Just look under the dash. Or look at the TM. Oil pegging = open circuit. Stuck in the middle does not ever move, even with truck off for days? Does the the buzzer keep buzzing, or doe s the buzzer shut off?

It is. Right side of that fitting.

Start with the basics. Are the batteries charged, and are the connections clean?