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Or, a snug fitting tube going through both of your existing tow eyes, with tow-bar axle clamps on the outside of the eyes?
Also, before we get you excited and hacking up your bumper, make certain your pickup is flat towable!
How wide is the flange (between yellow arrows)on the front of your push bar? If your tow-bar feet will straddle it, maybe build up both sides of the web with plate (in red) then drill a hole for the pins?
Not sure on the TM’s.
@WillWagner pointed this out on here years ago and it made an incredible difference in cranking time from my experience. I would dare to guess it would be the same with the mechanical cummins B, Ford, and IH motors that use the same type of injection pumps as well. I have...
Yes, a typical paint gun regulator plugs in between the quick connect on the end of your air hose, and your air tool/fuel tank. Most guys drill their fuel cap for a valve stem and wing it. Adding air pressure until they hear the tank starting to swell, with the tank vents trying to act as a...
Hopefully you can get the rod back on and weld some junk across it to keep it on, so you don’t have to chain the axle up. Not sure what the frame of the ISO bed looks like or if you can even get chains around it to chain the axle up? But if it’s like the standard beds thin c-channel frame, make...
Same procedure, minus the bleed screw. Air is going in where you see fuel coming out. Just be careful pressurizing the tank, it doesn’t take much pressure to turn a cube into a cylinder.
I think thats a bridge truck is why the bed is 10’ wide. Id be curios what the width is at the rear with the tires singled out. Also not sure why you need a block? Likely a piston liner kit or 6. Maybe a rod or two from forcing it over…
Sadly I think John passed away quite some time ago. Sounds like your PCB box relay or wiring is bad. Unfortunately running it like you describe has likely fried the ABS, and if an A2 the CTIS as well.
Check this thread out. Go to post #26 and use this procedure to start your truck. If your...
I’ve got a torque rod with good ends I’ll trade you for that “junk” truck![emoji6]
If you can stabilize that axle with binders front and back, release the brakes somehow, and just pick the whole back of the truck up with the wrecker and see if the drivetrain unwinds.
M929 will make a fine farm hauler. You’ll be better off with the nhc250, the 8.3 has a hell of a time getting rolling, overloaded in high range, if it’s soft. You may want the first gen A0 with the dual wheels as well if you’re doing a lot of steep work, and still need to keep your cool and run...
Try a chain and binder around the mount just below the separated end. You may need to jack up one side of the rear axle, then release the brakes in neutral to get any bind out of the drive train. It also may be possible to carefully torque the axle housing around with the brakes set using the...
I don’t think an 8.3 non turbo was ever put in a 5ton. Not sure if an 8.3na was ever even produced?
You’re probably mistaken the M939 series nhc250 for the 6cta8.3 in the M939a2