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You’re approaching removal wrong- there is a nut on the underside. You need to free that if you want to remove it. You might get the head loose, but it’s just going to spin until the nut is removed from beneath the tub. The penetrating oil isn’t going to do anything from on top as it’s not...

Winch and Airlift bumper are the reason for the difference.

If those are like the ones on my HMMWV, hitting the nut on the underside got them freed up pretty easily.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DQCFDJD?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

If you’re not sticking to OEM parts, I rehabbed my HVAC setup in that spot on my M1123 (A2) with the original insulation, some HVAC grade foil duct tape and this- POWERTEC 70241 Heavy Duty 2-1/2-Inch x 10-Foot Flexible PVC Dust Collection Hose with 2 Key Hose Clamps, Clear Color...

As far as I know, all M1123 trucks are A2 variants.

I have about 4-5” from the seat to the plane of the outer body.

They actually fit onto the existing holes from the MME Rear covers. The fronts were direct bolt in, too, IIRC. It was a tight fit in some spots, but the whole install took a hour or so. Very straightforward.

I have a set of the Corbeau Moab seats and center bench. They’re not the most durable material, but are quite comfortable.

My $0.02- I bought a M1123 (A2 truck, 6.5 GEP NA, 4 Speed, etc.) with no top/doors, 60 mi on the odometer from IROAN, very little use indicated from everything mechanical-for $15k with an on-road title. It needed a bit of wrenching (heater core, hoses, etc) but aside from a top/doors/tires...

Drums? Wrong fluid? That’d be enough for me to walk.

NSN - 2540-01-450-4017

I can't speak to the various butyl products, but I made my own "Lizardskin" knock off for my old jeep and it worked well enough. It was WAY cheaper than buying actual Lizardskin, too. I got a gallon of "Oops" paint from Home Depot - Exterior Latex, had them dye it dark grey, mix in hollow...

Mine was inop when I got my HMMWV as well. In addition to adjusting the switch, I used a couple of zip ties to stiffen the unit up some. That was many months ago, it’s still going strong. EDIT: Cleaned up what I wrote.

-3rd year Med School -Limited Budget Find a new hobby. Come back to HMMWVs when you're done with residency and established. My $0.02, Humvees are a ton of fun, but are expensive and require a lot of time and a lot of wrenching to get and keep roadworthy. Don't compromise your education...

Do you have before/after pictures? I'd like to visualize the difference.

Would it be possible to post some pictures of how this looks? I'm very curious to see this!

A few things to note, the wheel force listed here, I believe, is incorrect. That may be the center of balance, but the force is still applied at the hub face. That force may be greater, due to a longer arm, but it shouldn't move. If that's true, then the fulcrum "Wheel force" would not change...

That's fair, but the whole equation changes when you decrease the weight of the load by 1/3rd- Black Rhino Armory 17s - 37lbs ea, Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 37x12.5r17 78lbs ea Total 115lbs per point HMMWV Wheels...

Spacers are a whole other can of worms, bit I do agree. The difference in offset is approximately 1 inch going from stock 8/12/24 bolts to a -25 offset. That makes a difference, but it’s not huge. Nevertheless, I’m sure it makes a difference over a long enough period of time. Then again, if...