Search results

I shed a tear and said goodbye.

Or not pay and have a friend bid.

Just to ad to anyone who cares the wiper ring is added to the spindle because the seal that I installed on the 939 I had was bigger than the spindle. So bottom line need new seal and wiper ring.

Yea saw the coolant tank to but it could just be real low. You have my thoughts on it.🏃‍♀️🏃‍♀️🏃‍♀️

So you were able to install the newer grease seal in the A1 hub and wiper ring on the spindle. That is a good up grade for the A1. Do not know if you did a right up with pics thread but it is or could be a good one for A1 owners.

Looking great. I might cry a bit today as mine is on the plan to be picked up and go to Mullaney. Other than my 915A2 the M37 was the cleanest truck I have ever owned.

Correct me because I am old and can not remember a thing. Thought the 939 series truck had the inner grease seal changed to the seal installed in the hub?

That's good for you bad for me. Thinking maybe need to double check delivery valve as maybe some more crud has worked it's way into it. If I remember after you remove the delivery valve you can turn on the in tank pump and let it run and see if any crud comes out. Maybe catch it with a paper...

Well that can also happen if the main fuel control is set to low. If he can get it to Idle with his finger then we will get into adjusting the main fuel control. When he can start it as he has done the 6 o clock position is more than enough for the truck to run. Might even be real high idle.

Diesel fuel algaecide for microbes. There is also Asphaltenes and that is the black taffy looking stuff that will gather in the bottom of the tank. Product FuelOx for Asphaltenes will help. Just went to a friends house that has an LMTV and some starting problems. I took off the fuel tank fill...

What this test is going to do is eliminate the possibility of the main fuel adjustment being set to low.

You might try the bounce video way. It would be a pain if it lock every time when you are working / drawing back all the way. Been years but if I remember draw it back and at the last moment let the control lever go don't hold it. Helps if the crowd is folded and bucket is folded up for transport.

Sell me the truck cheap. If you want to try something. Remove the timing cover ( some call it the shut down cover but it is called the timing cover). Yea there will be some motor oil there and it should be. Now with a helper to turn on master and hit start button you are going to work the fuel...

Seems like the Case's I have run you have to do like the Video and bounce them up there. See how he released the control and then went forward with it and it locked. Take a couple of times practice but once you learn you got it.

99% of the time if we know some fuel pressure to the head is flowing, delivery valve is working and fuel control unit assembly is working free it will be the timing button.

Myself replaced with a Nyloc nut.

I would leave the center cap alone till you check the delivery valve. There has been one or two problems with it leaking after removal. Yes it is lefty loosey. Check your other thread you started and click on the link to a thread that shows where and about the delivery valve. Here I will post...

Welcome from Interlachen. Look on the bright side you got a free broom to help clean up the mess you make working on it. That truck looks like they trailered it there with the couple of wheels with lugs nuts not on tight or on right. Myself I would have it trailered out and bring lug wrench to...

Had a truck power divider was not working. Air line had a good crack in it by the axle so quick fix. By flipping the switch in cab you should have full air pressure at axle if you remove the air line from axle. No air more problems.