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Depending on the location and extent of the damage, I would also consider an epoxy patch. Cut out the rusty area. If it's on a flat area I would use preformed flat sheets of Garolite G-10 and 3M DP100NS adhesive. Ok a curved surface I would lay up some fiberglass biaxial tape with West System...

How much waste oil does everyone have? You can blend it with diesel and it doesn't require any treatment. I have dumped oil changes straight into my tank on my M1008. That's 2 gallons into less than 20 for the 6.2 liter diesel. It ran no differently than normal and made no smoke. It did not...

Good evening. I have not done any research yet and am wondering what is already known. I have installed a 2001ish center mount turbo 6.5 engine in my CUCV. I installed the DB2 pump and did not carry over any of the later electronics. I would like to get some gauges on the truck and have all of...

If you don't think your switch will handle it, add a relay.

I drove the heck out of my M1008 when it was 100% original and it seems that the more I modify it the less I drive it. I drove it over 800 miles in one day but don't really trust it to go 8 miles right now. Now, I have had some failures in that time. The original radiator failed and cause the...

Rubber is not damaged by sand blasting.

Zig zag is single phase.

How does it drive? If it's shifting hard you may need to do some adjusting/repair. If the shifting is correct you're good to go.

I meant to say that it has been cracked for some time before it broke. That's what the corrosion on the fracture face indicates.

How did it get bent? It looks like it had been fractured for some time. There is corrosion in the break.

We run 99 and 125kW John Deere generator sets at 10% load for 95% of their lifespan. We get 35k+ hours out of them and don't have wet stacking issues. Lube oil consumption was outrageous on the 8.1L 125kW units so we downsized to 99kW 4.5L units. If you have motor loads with high inrush make...

I'm not a fan of aftermarket chassis parts with grease fittings. The sealed units have long life greases that most people don't know about. Polyurea greases are not compatible with the auto parts store lithium greases. Of course, this wouldn't cause a link to break.

The movement is critical. Your engine cannot survive without it. At a minimum you should hear a clunk from the crankshaft if you bump it quickly.

Use a prybar to bump the crankshaft fore and aft. I think it should move around 0.006". I don't have the number memorized.

That first video looks like Hollister Hills. Put my first and second dents in my M1008 there.

If it is an epoxy paint it will be faded and yellow within a year Epoxies are essentially polyamide or nylon plastic which is subject to discoloration from UV. Surface tolerant epoxies exist but they shed layers as an ablative coating which gives them a chalky appearance.

We've been running R99 instead of diesel 2 in my fleet for a year now. It has messed with our sight glasses and centrifuges due to lower density. We have not experienced any microbial issues. Microbes live in water and eat hydrocarbon fuels at the interface of water and fuel. Minimizing the...

Water is the enemy. Keep your tank clean. Run the fuel through a filter before you put it in the tank. Run the fuel through the same filter as you drain the tank. Use valve to ensure the correct direction of flow of fuel through the filter.

No need to get into the differential. Once you remove the lockout hub then the rest of the job is the same as a 2wd truck. The hub and rotor come off together once the outer wheel bearing is removed. You'll have to hammer the studs out to separate the rotor from the hub. I suggest replacing the...

It is a ring and pinion. It's a bevel gear with a helical cut. The centerline of the pinion is aligned with the axis of the ring gear. Maybe spiral bevel gear is more prevalent? Truck differentials mostly use hypoid gears. They are similar but the axes are offset. The hypoid gear has some worm...