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That's correct. It's a HD 20×10" 20bolt 2pc steel wheel with a 10-on-335mm center, used on some of the MRAP models.

Many ways to accomplish that..... Correct option would be a plate with a step machined to it on its backside, fitting snuggly into the opening of the now modified outer half (cut & turned on the lathe). Easiest (& cheapest) way: a few weld spots on the wheel inside, after confirming that...

No, it's more like 36".

Just pull it out; it doesn't do anything. It's just a residue from when the raw rubber was injected (pressed) into the mold.

For that kind of terrain a "properly outfitted Deuce" wouldn't have skinny street tires. In soft sand your main problem is the weight on the front end. Even deflated, truck wants to go down, not forward! My suggestion: Get yourself a set of 365/80R20 Continental MPT81 mounted on M35A3 wheels...

... Especially since they were all posted the very same day.

Sounds like you are selling your truck (?) If so then please post an ad (with pics) in our classifieds section. (Selling in the open forums is not allowed.)

I'm sure you meant to say M10x1.5

That's correct. And the first one fits on your hubs; 2nd doesn't... Bolt hole pattern is 10 on 11.25" (chamfered) vs. 10 on 335mm (straight).

That !!

Guessing this is his '84 M1009, he's already posted about. (Thread moved to CUCV forum)

... and the OP never even bothered to reply to any of all 26 following posts (!) Thread closed.

Yes, and not only in Germany... But the good thing is there are (height-adjustable) 3" lunette rings available, which are GTW-certified and don't cost a fortune. Here is just one example: https://www.etrailer.com/Lunette-Ring/Buyers-Products/337B20145.html Electrical hook-up shouldn't be a...

May I ask why you want a military trailer, when there are many options (with electric brakes) in the civy world? Thinking about something like this: https://kraftsmantrailers.com/sites/default/files/model_f1-16_1.pdf Their 18'+4 version would work fine and it's 2000lbs lighter than the M1061.

NSN 2330-01-387-5424 , Chassis Trailer Keep looking....... Even with a special platform to fit a HMMWV, that single axle trailer in Q. would be seriously overloaded! Nope.

Tire beads should pop off with no effort at all, since these 16.5" wheels have straight 15deg shoulders with no safety hump. The only way they could get stuck is if there was severe rust built up.

I do, too.... being that everything else of the brake system is covered in great detail(!) Exception: this old TM 9-2320-211-35 (pub.1964, last change C5 in 1978 ) shows this parts diagram and repair procedures (pages 248 & 249). No mention of any check valve and/or spacer, though....

Too bad you didn't get the new-style gaskets from Seco... I don't think that the dowels are the culprit. If I had no other choice as to use the early OEM gaskets, I would at least anneal the rings (450-500°C = barely red) to get them nice and ductile. Also make sure that the torque wrench is...

Military or civy doesn't matter: only the very early 6.2s had the (coarse) M24x2.0 threaded injectors. From 1983 on, all 6.2L engines have injectors with the M24x1.5 (fine) thread.

No worries.... 1) The T-case's (static) oil level is way below that point. 2) Everything that keeps the oil inside the TC (while in motion), is still there. Take a look at this diagram: Parts 7 & 8, as well as most of the adapter itself are still in place. There is a small oil seal fitted...