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what is the part number you found and going by drawing above..... What number on the drawing (5?) does the part number belong too? @mrjeffa

it's always something stupid right.

maybe remove vent cap, put a hose on it and run it over to a removable tiny bottle (or one with drain) to act as a catch can. Then hose up to high spot; off the top of the bottle, to be "the vent"? Bottle could even be a fat clear hose maybe? Clear will make it easy to check on when to...

couple solutions discussed in this thread.... shoo goo, making them and purchasing new ones...... what are you showing us here? appears to be new ones from mtpdrivetrain..... or did you make this as Bdog did?

what is name/model of charger? I got a low cost one long while back that ruined a battery in storage. Advertising for the product made you think it was a tender/maintainter...... It wasn't..... it was a trickle charger... so overtime its constant charging just cooked the battery.

diaphragms same....... othewise I am an idiot... ignore me. did see though two part numbers (for different reason) .... one says it is for FMTV and MRAP.... and other one only for FMTV (except wrecker) ...

UPDATE- FORGET WHAT SAID BELOW. I'm an idiot. ... dont think that new piece is correct. The two chambers on the rear axle are different part numbers.... and one you need includes the neck and internal parts. Looks like what you got is the other chamber. Maybe wrong number got put on box...

could do this design with strap metal with numerous hinges and locks to bottom plate below tanks.. aka a giant pad lock hasp similar to this https://www.amazon.com/NU-SET-Laminated-Security-Improvement-Hardware/dp/B013RV77OA?ref_=ast_sto_dp

Some early A1's if I recall right had issues with the light switch that was the upgrade from the A0 version. It had no ground wire. It was planned it would ground proper thru the bolts...and it didn't work out that way in reality. CARC is beasty lol..... Anyway after a few fires and other...

will be interesting to see if bead dust clogs those filters. Beads have come along way... they likely do not break up as much like they use too so it may be a non issue. Time will tell

Seem to recall several have put something in backward on reassembly.. or something like that... so keep close eye on little stuff... which way is up and which way is down.. as well as the order of things in some of the small areas.

are you speaking of the CTIS ECU? What would concern me if so..... is they say to unplug it before jump starting.. (this came up in a PS Mag. bulletin) Is that because it does not like sudden surges? if so.... then I would only use your kill switch for off/ons when the truck is OFF for same...

hmmmm .... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BL1NNH3R/ you might like this book. Have read part.... it's really good. PS- apparently we are linked by otherways than MV truck/campers... What a dam interesting koinkidink

There is a harness for it already in the truck. Lots of discussion on this. you may find it it easier to use your favorite search engines advanced feature to seearch inside this FMTV forum for two words Tach harness or Tachometer Harness

Ran it strait off the alternator?

what is relevancy of first pic? looks like an alternator? In the second pic... is that 100amp breaker near the rifle mount in the cab? Cant read the few words graphically put in the pic. back wall like the inverter? what wires are on it? Thanks

correct. But Marmon and half Marmon is analgis to single flare and double flare brake lines. .... they are how the ends mate up to seal proper. Curious if an adapter is needed. Sean's (Fastidius restomod) ... good idea.. will look. Not sure he used "this kit" though...

just verified with Rome.. this is good part number

delete this post mod

use hole drill to put a hole in the top of the case big enough for 1. tweesers or loooong needle nose that can reach and yank the fuse and 2. fits a ready made removable plug from??? McMaster Carr orr?? 3. or maybe cut it as a door and hinge the opening? Duct tape over any of these to keep...