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Yes, the grill/headlights and vent windows changed during the civilian 1980-1988 production run so you must order 1984 parts for those areas. Most other parts are the same but it's best to just always order for 1984.

Just remember, all CUCV trucks are 1984 models despite production year. I have a 1986 and learned this the hard way when ordering window seals. I'm not super happy with my seal kit so I won't suggest it. I'm not super unhappy as I have made no attempts to make it better so I won't suggest...

Everybody has their preferences. I have used Diamond Diesel for various pumps over the years. I had one problem with them installing the wrong shutdown solenoid. They gave me the tools so I could swap it on engine without removing the pump.

Silicone will allow the oil from the grease to leak and everything will be a sticky mess. Silicone rubber is very permeable.

$32000 is what the a government paid for them new in 1984-1986.

Ok, I only know CUCV.

There are very few gaskets that are supposed to be in these engines. Despite them being available through the aftermarket, don't be tempted to use them. This list includes the oil pan, valve covers, exhaust manifolds, timing cover, water pump adapter plate. If you're assembling an engine on a...

There are very few gaskets that are supposed to be in these engines. Despite them being available through the aftermarket, don't be tempted to use them. This list includes the oil pan, valve covers, exhaust manifolds, timing cover, water pump adapter plate. No. Gaskets.

No gasket.

Manifolds tightened? Did you use exhaust gaskets? These engines aren't supposed to have exhaust gaskets.

Start with a 12 pack, this one is going to take some time and a buddy 😉

Keep in mind that the Lock N Stitch kit for the 6.2/6.5 block does not involve metal stitching. The crack does not get repaired but is stabilized with the insert instead. Obviously the engine runs fine with the crack so there is no need to repair them. The labor to install the inserts is...

That backlash spec is for new gears. If you're looking to qualify your old set you need to look for the "service limit" which will be closer to that 0.020".

Also, the crack is already full of oil. Just wipe the area dry and spray it with some talcum powder. That will show the crack just as well as dye pen.

Yes, the option is to install Lock-N-Stitch inserts http://castingrepair.locknstitch.com/item/fft-style-special-application-inserts-2/fft-style-special-application-inserts-basic-kits/fft5sp001k Some recommend using 10mm Inserts and and replace the outer bolts with the 10mm bolts from a 2001+...

Lock-N-Stitch has a repair kit for these engines. You'll need to dye pen the cracks to evaluate the severity. I retired my 6.2 block because of this cracking. After sitting out in the rain the rust shows the extent of the cracks. One nearly crossed the main bearing oil passage.

They were $32k in 1980's dollars if I remember correctly. Not a cheap truck.

That engine looks fresh. I'm surprised you have no head cracks and the pre-cups are so bad. Is your pump turned up or something? Does this thing run petal to the metal all of the time? I've moved on from head cracks. I'm convinced the head is relieved between the valves to cause it to crack...

The key is to assume no coating can be 100% defect free. Zinc based coatings are the only ones that can protect a defect. You best system would be an inorganic zinc coating with calcium sulfonate wax topcoat.

If you can get an accessory rack from a 1996+ 6.5 engine it has dual alternator brackets AND an A/C compressor mount. This let's you keep your wiring harness unmodified. There are plug in adapters for the SI to CS alternator conversion. Downside is that I haven't been able to find an isolated...