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As someone who lives, drives, camps on the coast in a high wind, salt spray environment where looking at something long enough you will see it rust...a spray bottle and some Ospho are your friend. Looking at that truck, a lot of the rust is surface rust and Ospho will kill that. It will help...

Just a guess, but if you have a 1998 M1079 the box would be 1998 as well. I'd guess the box you have now was added to the truck in a refit or repair/replace? The pump would not be on the truck if that were the case (if that chassis wasn't originally set up for it)..

I'm sure it was part of the OEM heater install for the trucks with the Arctic package.

No, it's just above the fuel tank. If you had it, you'd see it.

Remove it, bend it, reinstall? You can make it clamp tight.

My OEM heater is removed. The pump is still there, if that's what you want to see a pic of. But it's just a little electric fuel pump min a metal box mounted above the fuel tank.

I need to keep the option for reasons. And with the rear entry, I could put a step (incorporated into the 2" hitch) to use when the ladder is stowed (handy-af for Home Depot runs, etc)

Nope I hit the same snag with being able to brace it while extended (w/o welding the whole thing up in the extended position). I can make it work, but I'd lose the ability to retract the pintle. I thought about modifying the OEM pintle to slide all the way out to be completely removed. Then...

I tried some of the Amazon offers. Be sure to check the pinouts. Of the three I tired (that claimed to be compatible) all had different pinouts than the one I had gotten from Dearborn. So be sure to test the pinout. This is the one I got from Dearborn: DEARBORN PROTOCOL ADAPTER CABLE -...

Not sure about him, but most folks carry a small temp gun. You can get them off Amazon or at Horror Freight. Very inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/Sanliang-Thermometer-Adjustable-Emissivity-Temperature/dp/B0CH6LKBSZ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa...

No real images of the setup, but it's pretty self-explanatory as long as you have the same y-splitter I used (one in/two-out). First I severed the 24v pin on ONE of the y-splitter OUT ends (so one side will still get 24v to the kick panel for the actual diag tools). Sealed the live 24v wire...

I need to do my roof asap. I keep putting it off, but it needs to happen before I can return to the build out.

As far as heaters, yeah I'm putting mine in the old arctic heater location.

I've not added my internal power yet, but one thing that's stuck in my mind over the years was someone saying "never mount lithium batteries under your bed" (there was an embedded video of a lithium battery flashing and exploding). It got my attention and stuck in memory. Mine will be in a...

You and Colt need to hook up and do a co-op project. Automate that hand crank gat he's rockin' LOL ;)

Well done. Need one of those loud little commercial alarms for when it's raising. "nnnnnnnnnnt-nnnnnnnnnt-nnnnnnnnnnt-nnnnnnnnnnnt"

People GO to New Jersey????!!!!!

Yep, did that exact thing (finger of grease to the hooks) every time I fueled up my old A0 truck. Cab was nice a quiet. Non-issue for the ridged-mounted A1R cab that lacks the hook/tab configuration.

You'll spend some time and cash getting one up to snuff, but at the end of the day it's a CAT engine with an Alison transmission. Operating expenses scale, so not knowing what trucks you normally run it's hard to compare. It's closer to maintaining a semi. Bigger tools, bigger volumes, bigger...

It's almost always the batteries this time of year. No-crank posts shoot up all over social media and the LMTV groups/forums.