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Fording exhaust removed and replaced with a regular pipe
Chairs washed and reinstalled
Took it for a test drive to get a feel for how clean seats and floors feels... :sneaky:
Truck got a LOT of looks. I only went a mile or so down around the lake and back. On the return leg I approached a...
Pulled all the chairs out and lifted or removed the matting- all San Yermo mud under there. I started with a putty knife and scraped the mud up, then mowed the front yard. That brief break dried the little bit of mud left, so I vacuumed up as much as I could, then got the hose and a scrub...
Some years ago I owned a 1986 Ford Ranger XLT with the off-road package. I wanted an air horn in it, and this is how it was done.
I sourced the air horn from a steel scrapyard, it was attached to the roof of a semi-tractor body that had been scrapped. I also bought the dual-needle air pressure...
Instead of wondering what kind of amperage is running down Wire 14 I decided to find out. I talked to a techno-wienie I know (Technowienie) and he was skeptical about the 14ga wire carrying 70 amps. Also, whatever switch I use, even if the contacts weld themselves together it's not going to...
Excellent!
So yes, I see wire 14 comes off the Start leg, so if that's 70 amps there's no way the key switch I have will work. Another option I guess would be a latching relay, but I don't find one that can handle that much current.
I like the keyed battery cutoff, but I wouldn't want to...
I still need to paint them before installing, which will require some nice weather.
I will be checking (currently raining) but I'm pretty sure it's a ground path, not carrying any current. In other words, the shifter in P or N provide a ground path to allow the starter relay to close.
EDIT to...
The key switch I ordered arrived today- fast shipping too.
I got this switch and this mounting plate. I'll interrupt the neutral cutout line to prevent the vehicle from starting.
They makes two key switches like this, one where the key remains in the lock when switched on, and one that allows...
I had a seep from the fuel filter drain at the spigot - wasn't sure if the valve was leaky or the line was bad. Got in there today and the line was cracked at the clamp. I was going to just snip off the broken bit and reconnect, but the other end was cracked as well. So off to the parts store...
I have some ductwork missing on mine- the HAVC duct that connects the left to the right. I can't help but think the system would be more efficient if they were connected. Problem is, I'm not replacing something that's already there, I'm trying to fill in a gap - I don't know what part and how...
They used to pop up on ebay from time to time. I paid $28 in 2018 for the one in the pics, although the shipping on it was $54. I haven't seen any in a while.