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I finally got a chance to look in the -20P. Taking the number for the bolts I assumed were 7/16" and doing a search gets this: http://www.ctg123.com/rapid-quote-system/request/?p=MS90728-92 Standard by the way I read it.

If that doesn't work and you have a high pain tolerance. Remove the starter, clean up the bolt shaft and try welding a nut to it. A 3/8" nut welded on the inside should keep you from getting anything on the block. I would also suggest holding the nut with the welding ground lead because you...

Keith, I didn't even try metric on there. Didn't even think about it. 5/8 and 11/16 wrenches fit all of the fasteners I assumed where 7/16. 9/16 fit all of what I assume are 3/8 fasteners. Now you have me wondering. I will have to study the -P manuals to see if it list out what they are for...

LMC and O'Reilly's both have the straps at $29 the set. I thought about doing the threaded rod thing since I had all the stuff apart. My reasons for not fabbing something up was I want that 224 pound when full tank secure. Yes, the skid plate is a great safety net and I am a great welder...

I second the kick panel vent door seal. I pulled a set off a truck the other day that had 1/4-1/2 inch gaps all around each door. No way is air going to be held by by that. Replacement doors are $29.99 each at LMC. Try putting duct tape on both housings and see if it stops.

I have been reading for years on here about how weak the M1009 pintle hitch really is. I have put thousands of miles pulling supposedly too heavy for the truck M101 trailers with no issues and no bending of anything. Granted, I haven't tried pulling any 105's or yanking trees out of the ground...

Sam, If everything works like it is supposed to with the lights off. Then goes stupid with the running lights on. The it almost for sure is the ground of one of the four running lights up front or the four rear running lights. My experience in 2 different 1009's and the Blue bomber Suburban...

Check at the positive and negative terminal for the battery charged by the alternator you are checking. Drivers side alternator does the front battery and passenger side alternator does the rear battery.

You need to narrow down which alternator is the problem. Put a volt meter across the terminals of a battery and then across both terminals of the other battery. 14.4 volts is what each battery should show with the engine running. If they are both there, hold the engine at a higher rpm and see...

A good way to understand how long to give them power is to remove one. Set it in a vice and put 12 volts to it. Count how long it takes to get all red. If you don't have 60G plugs, that is your maximum glow time. If you do have 60G plugs, it really doesn't matter except for how much battery...

Thanks for the pictures. What kind of bow corners do you have on your M101? They seem more rounded that most I have seen. Almost matching the M715 bow angles.

Besides checking the belt for tightness. Check the nut on the front of the alternator shaft. It could be loose and the pulley is just free wheeling when you rev the engine. Otherwise, it is probably time for a take down and put new innards in there. You really only need a 15MM wrench to get...

Thanks for doing this again Lincoln. I have kept that weekend clear just for this event.

The plug for the 3 lever is different with blinkers in the system. That and the plugs for the signal arm and the blinker box are really what you need. Then of course a diagram showing how they all fit. PM me or send an email to: barrman@m715zone.com and I will send you what I think is a...

One more odd ball forgotten small diesel to throw at you. Chevy had a 4.3 diesel in the 1987 or so for their front wheel drive cars. I looked into them a few years ago and stopped when I found my CJ-3A had a bunch of cracks in the frame.

The trouble shooting section of the -20 manual takes you through how to test the light. The sensor is on the drivers side front cylinder head.

Check the white wire going under the tcase shifter. It is probably grounding out.

The ground tab on the front marker lights probably broke off. You can bend it in to touch the bulb case, but putting in a new socket is best.

My 1952 published TM for the M35 trucks has the lights as in my picture. Not all of them though. I think there are at least 4 different rear light arrangements over the years on just the M35 trucks. There are no numbers or other markings on mine, but I am pretty sure each of the 12 or so...

Just to make you feel even better than the advice already given. Chevy eliminated that bolt behind the #8 cylinder with the 2000 model year engine. Everything since doesn't have that mount even there anymore. You are fine.