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I suspect you meant to type 2215 instead of 2255(there is no 2255 code)? all the 54 series codes are ratio failures. If the 22 code was 2215 then I suspect you may have a bad turbine speed sensor or wiring fault… Or you have something causing clutches to slip, but slippage would not cause any...

I extended the top frame 18” using the front lift arch I removed from behind the cab. That is about in the middle of the exit angle of the box so the total length from end of original frame length to back habitat wall is 33.5”. I am forecasting ~35 degree exit angle from the face of the rear...

Yes,, 22” of habitat space thats NOT hanging off the back end of the frame:)… is a bit of work, which is why you don’t compromise… remove it all and push the habitat all the way forward to the cab latch and make good use of those 22 hard won inches. Scrap the AOP and valve, I basically...

I think JBLM is where my 1079A0 finished its service as I picked it up from Auction up in Lakewood off bridgeport way... Had the word "shops" stencilled on the front so I suspect it was a pool vehicle used as a big rolling tool box...

no not specifically. There should be a diagram in your documentation somewhere to ID which pin is which for a particular switch connector. I typically confirm the pins using wire numbers to be sure of what I am looking for.. if you can pull the connector it should have 4 or perhaps 5 wires...

OK, 3041A and B are the k1 and k2 coil ground wires. 1548 is the 24V ignition switch power in from both IGN switches to the coils of k1 and k2. If neither ign switch works and CB45 is passing power, I would look to the inside remote disconnect switch under the drivers dash or somewhere along...

I don't have that exact diagram in front of me right now but if I recall one side of relay K1 and K2 coils is connected to ground. the ign switch power for both inside and outside ignition switches originates at CB45 in the power panel, and is delivered to the inside remote battery disconnect...

that is a tough one unless you do something active... You really are not going to be able to beat the rugged simplicity of a mechanical sway bar... I am really surprised that they didn't put one on the front of the LMTV...

You could always add a front swaybar...

You should be able to adjust the lever friction… mine stays where I put it…

I recall seeing one of I think one of the replacement systems. A lot more movement…

Interesting. I get the impression it is stiffer than the air spring as I don’t think I saw even an inch of movement out of it even with the suspension making some pretty large movements… say “Rubber Baby Buggy Bumpers” three times fast…:)

well yits friction control already holds it in place, the issue is it needs to automatically command to zero to cancel it if you need to panic stop… That thing you step on to make the truck go is in reality not a throttle. For convenience we all call it that, but since it is connected to a...

Yep, basically a limp mode so the truck is not completely disabled. As General said, it is a bare minimum amount of power, not enough spool the turbo, maybe just enough to move the truck off the highway or idle it around the repair yard:)

Yea it could be... the ECU uses a Pulse Width Modulated signal to control that pressure reg valve Based on what it sees on the pressure sensor. So if the system doesn’t see a sensor, it will either not fire the injectors same as if it does not see adequate pressure, or it will detect that no...

Is that sensor a must have or will it start and run in a limp mode without it?

I am not doing zero torsion, I am doing “roving 3 point” AKA captured spring. In my case I chose to place the two fixed points found in 3 and 4 point systems at the front of the habitat, with the 3rd roving point alternating between the two frame rails at the rear depending on which one twists...

Yea gasket paper and a little ball peen hammer will knock this out in a few minutes.

Also a good way to externally pressurize the system to look for leaks…