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What year is your trans controller? After ~94 the controller can run EITHER 12 or 24. That is also the voltage output to the VIM relays controlled by the TCU, so those relays(neutral start) would have to be swapped. From the 3060 Troubleshooting manual: NOTE: Model Year ’94 and earlier...

The shoes have a perch and an actuator end. If the shoes are ever put on backwards, it can damage the adjusters...

But I did design my own:) works great!

Actually deleting it would be quite easy. Some say 4” box or round tube cut to length and welded in place of the shock assemblies… way easier than building my own system:O

Yep could be shock absorber bushings, the ones on mine I disassembled, the shocks were fine, the bushings had disintegrated, and of course the airbags looked like a cat scratching post… if it is squeaking, look to the hooks from the cab that hook over the pins on the arch. Lube them to quiet...

I have always used a large screwdriver with a notch in the end of the blade… the first time I ever used a set of spring pliers was a genuine “holy shit that was easy” moment:)

IS yours still intact, or are you needing one because you don't have one? If you have one, you can pull it, remove the covering over the center and access the bearing, replace the bearing with a comparable sealed bearing and re-install...

Yep, lotta simple ways to fry this fish...:) Planning something similar for stability, 2 angled struts(~60 degree down angle) with baseplates, running from hardpoints, with a strap or cable winch across between the bases to pull them into tension. kinda like the crank down stability legs seen...

You could also do the same thing with a bead of spray foam. Spray a bead, let it cure then place the cover which will compress the bead and form a foam seal.

I might pay money to watch that:)

Yea I use a tablet where I can zoom in on the PDF. I use paper sometimes when I am working out a circuit, or redesigning/retasking one...

And your 4ga clue pointed me right to it. TL508 connects to the solenoid L10 at the back of the head that feeds the intake heater. it comes from the LBCD/PPD. If you look along that wire you will probably find a funky thin spot covered with heat-shrink tubing. That is the “fusible link” for...

well 4GA is pretty large, maybe for the intake air heater?

Unfortunately wire numbers can be difficult as there is not a clear listing. far easier with TL or plug numbers, as most of the plugs are listed for the A1 In a lot of cases, TL numbers from the A0 listing can give you a clue, but they top out at TL300 so N/A in this case. Where they are...

Yea I am putting a fairing/box up there, so it would be like a sunroof in the basement:)

I seem to recall seeing at least 2 different versions of "moon roof" hatch covers... This one is operable, the first one I recall was fixed...

Mine had a strip of tape sealant applied around the circle. Except the bright light that put that strip in, left a gap between the two ends of the tape where they overlapped instead of running them into contact with each other… took longer to take the cover off than it did to fix it…

No I do not, and I forget who I dealt with there over the phone. There is a thread in here that I started when I put in my omni windshield that should have the POC info.

I am going to go a little more sophisticated, air cylinder and solenoid valve to the brake switch. When you touch the Brake pedal, the air cylinder resets the hand throttle to zero…:)

Yep, and if the tubular frame is strong enough, like the tube and fabric airplane, the skin can be a lot of things. if the frame spacing isn't too great, a good Sikaflex bond will actually provide a bit of shear resistance, depending on how thick the skin is i suppose. If i recall that is how...