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@Floridianson is correct. I just got drivelines back from complete ($2077.) rebuild, new splines, new u joints, balanced, everything. Vibration persists though it did help. I did have a question about ring gear lash: if I pull the pumpkin and want to tighten it can I measure with a feeler gauge...

I like the direct gear lash measurement of Steve's method, it would seem that is the more accurate way. That being said, I wish we had better guidance on the lash setting. .010-.020 is a lot of tolerance for something that is supposed to be precise. Has anyone been skilled enough to get an LMTV...

I am ready to get gear lash adjustment going in my LMTV. Using Steve6x6x6's method and a cut open hub cover, what should the lash between bevel gears be if I have it shimmed correctly?

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Previous owner was knowledgeable about the gear hubs, and had extra shims for them. I am thinking that he had set the lash when he did the rebuild. I can hear the gear hubs make a pitched whirring sound. I will look into checking them for good measure. @Kemper That is quite helpful. It appears...

Steering wheel and a little in the gas pedal. When the front axle is unloaded a phasing in and out of vibrations, almost like a carrier bearing or something were completely shot. I did not notice any free play. If I did tighten up the gear lash, would it reduce that play? My rear axle has...

Below 44 MPH, or up to 50 MPH under load, there are no vibrations present. Big improvement, but not the 55mph I was looking for.

Had drivelines rebuilt: new slip joints, new u joints, removed the cardboard deadener, high precision balance ($2077.75) and driveline vibrations persist. Does this appear to be the correct gear lash and free play in an LMTV alxe? I have climbed under other tucks to check third member free...

@Coffey1 Send me 4 so I can get a good sample of the average sizes.. On a serious note, if anyone is in the Bay area I could have one scanned over the weekend.

Count me in for a set if you do @fuzzytoaster I don’t remember where but I recall 18ga as the thickness, does that sound correct?

If anyone has one I could get in hand, I have access to a Leica Scanstation P40 and have made parts models in Solidworks from point cloud scans. Could easily build a mold from that.

Not sure what the rules are for posting, but I know of a source for 395/85 20s in Apple Valley CA, close to the DRMO. He is difficult to reach, but does call back. Kipp 760-240-4731

I was hoping not to have to resort to Solidworks and the waterjet. Without a press to stamp them from steel into a shape, they would not be nearly as strong. This would be hundreds of dollars in materials and tens of hours on the CNC to have them machined from 7075. Wish I could unsee them.

Simp, you nailed it: Aerospace Engineer, not used to compromise. 32k is a long time, and I am likely overthinking this.

So apparently these don't exist anymore. What would it take to separate a set from someone? DM with your price. I need these.

These vehicles stood up to the harsh environments in recent desert theaters, and I had planned on changing oil much more often than 10k. Thinking 5k miles or 3 months, especially with dino oils which break down over time when exposed to carbon / soot. I am planning on doing the 290hp upgrade...

Is there a suitable synthetic oil for the Cat 3116 with a straight weight to avoid aftercooler issues? I have had really great success with using synthetic oils in high heat environments, extreme conditions. Notably: 406k heavy trailer miles on one Duramax 6.6 with no issues, stock internals...

Solidworks user here. Does anyone have the 1078 file?

I’m looking for a set as well should anyone have some for sale.

Is it difficult to drive from the continental US to Alaska in an overland expedition vehicle based on an LMTV?