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My Brother replaced the entire inside - floor pans, inner and outer rocker panels and the rear floor. He welded the old brackets in the same place! No rivets CRAP, :???: I just remove the entire seat and base/frame. Probably isn't safe to just drill holes and bolt different seats in there...

tires/rims Mark, Eric (DOGHEAD) will get back to you on his build. Did you ever get a second M101a2 series trailer so you'll have a set? your brother

Good luck, got to be easier on the back than removing and reinstalling a fuel injection pump!

restriction switch? I believe that to be a fuel pressure SENSOR a very unnecessary sensor. The military had this for diagnostic purpose. If you buy a brand new civilian type they do not have this pressure sensor. This sensor was prone to leaking fuel & those causing the system to loose...

Just a week ago I went to a local pick and pull to look for a rear window crank in the tailgate for the M1009. I actually found a mint K blazer and removed the electric rear window regulator I noticed it had a great interior and the A/C was left. Only the engine and doors had been removed. I...

Just a week ago I went to a local pick and pull to look for a rear window crank in the tailgate. I actually found a mint K blazer and removed the electric rear window regulator. It had a great interior and A/C. Only the engine and doors had been removed. I decided that I would love to upgrade...

remove it completely, clean with WD40 (Fog real good), reinstall, operate. to easy...[thumbzup]

They all start to leak at the throttle shaft. I put 2 new o rings on there even though the old ones APPEARED fine after I took the top apart. Well, it ran for a couple more months then total pump failure. I ended up having the IP rebuilt. You could try to fix the leak with new o rings, the work...

:ditto:on the plate, remove the plate and the push rod will pop out. Remove the push rod and coat with a good thick grease - axle if you got it. If not use any grease coat it up real good, slide r back up in - the grease will hold it up in there trust us. Put your plate back on and install...

Hey what kind of contraption you got going on there!? [thumbzup] ok Modification, I said it - now do tell... custom fuel return?

theres thousands left but a lot are being sold so take your pick, might be a good Idea if you can afford it to make sure you get one!

I believe that the CDR Valve is not working, that the oil filler tube cap has a venting function for this reason as a back up - the civilian 6.2 oil filler cap was flat with no venting capabilities... Shake the oil tube cap it should rattle freely!

aua They are always thinking...:cookoo:

Once a year WD-40 to Clean CDR Valve and Oil Tube Filler Cap Used WD-40 to soak the CDR Valve and the Oil Tube Filler Cap. Both are freed up now and work. I re-soak both parts once a year!

The fuel pressure sensor is USELESS. Do not waste your money. Either plug the housing port with a screw or buy a housing without the again USELESS sensor. The sensor is for Diagnostic equipment only. It serves no purpose to fuel filtration or how your engine runs! GMC Car Parts Surplus

You got exactly what you should have, and your better off without it!

aux fuel pump running ( run a 24v jumper wire ), you can drain the tank out the back VERY GOOD TO KNOW [thumbzup]

Pictures please

Filter base and housing has a very good presence of Diesel fuel and a droplet formed on the bottom where you would drain off water.

Some John Deere tractors use same base and filter. I put this same one on mine 60.00 when I first purchased CU CV. Ended up having a class 2 leak. Changed the filter - still leaked, gave it away. Ended up buying OEM Stanadyne 80 filter base and filter minus the fuel pressure sensor that gave me...