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i'm with you - if the axle lines are already plumbed, why couldn't you add 3 (or two if you tie the rears together) 3-position valves to either fill, block, or dump air from the tires...? could you explain more? i don't understand how this is possible unless there is a valve on the outside of...

i searched through about 52 threads... is there a minimum actuation pressure that the transfer requires in order for the air-shift to function adequately/properly? since i don't need air for brakes anymore, i'm trying to design my air system on/off settings appropriately without having to...

oh, chit - you're right!!! i had the two laying close to each other and picked up the wrong one... :doh: the PTO shift rod is ~5-3/4" CL to CL. sorry about that... :roll:

~14-5/8" CL to CL

18 gpm (at ~1400 engine rpm) will net you about 23 fpm bare drum, and up to 46 fpm full drum. IMHO, having variable control of line speed from 0 to 46 fpm would be a good thing.

18 gpm on the valve is going to slow down your max winch speed. 1500 psi relief is going to limit your max pull. get a valve with an adjustable relief setting to 'tweak' your max pull pressure setting. you can do this destructively (by means of shear pins) or mathmatecally - your choice.

oh, and i don't take this as a personal dig or anything, but i don't understand this comparison. much like the winch discussion, just because the truck is obtained for 'dirt', why should everthing else be procured for a similar discount? i don't understand this logic.

the rotors are machined, too. (i thought i mentioned that?) anyway, the hubs and rotors are machined. from what i can tell, the rotors are machined a tad different front vs rear. i think the hubs are machined the same front vs rear, but i don't know that since they were assembled prior. the...

not much until, probably, next weekend. i got relays in the mail before i left and i think gauges should be there when i get back. so i've got a ton of wiring to do. and, of course, i have that upper end to do on the engine to see if that rids the 'thump'. i grew up here, but i don't miss...

yeah.... consider that nail gone. when i did something like that the actual worst pain came the next day when the split in the nail had fully clotted and there was no where for the fluid and building pressure to go. OMG did it throb. i finally peeled the nail half open to relieve the...

ran out of time today; didn't adjust the valves. i spent the afternoon re-aligning the drivetrain (drilling a bunch of holes :roll:). i got the jack shaft aligned much better and took it for a hard drive; the vibrations that i was having is much reduced, although still there. there may be...

even with the correct clutch housing adapter (which i'm not sure exists in SAE pattern) and doing a GM style fixed-yoke tailshaft conversion the NV will still be 3"+ longer than the Spicer trans. you cannot make that 3" up in the jack-shaft. so, basically the answer is 'no' because it won't...

no. u-bolts are much more flexible than welds. the welds would crack and fail long before the u-bolts. and the blocks are constructed out of very thick plate - i don't see these failing before the previous two components. sure, anything is possible. there is plenty of room there and...

the rotors, both front and rear, are assembled behind the hubs by pressing the lug studs through both. from what i can tell, the rear rotors could be stock, but the front have a bit of machining on them to make them fit. so re-order is a 'yes and no' answer. but i honestly don't know how on...

if they weren't welded, i'd say yes.

actually, since the PTO runs 2/3 engine rpm in 'low' and 'reverse', this would be a perfect ratio. 800 engine rpm = 533 PTO rpm. bump it up a little (810) and you've got 540 at the PTO. however, idling a MF for long periods is bad. regardless, i agree, that you wouldn't want that PTO...

i'm not sure this would be the same - the alternator i used was the OE NipponDenso split-eared case (internally cooled) that fits under the stock 8-rib serpentine. any other 24V that i could find was a Delco style with large foot and external fan - this wouldn't fit well. but if your part...

short video of start and idle. sound isn't great. i need to get someone to help me video: YouTube - 5 9 Start Idle how do you embed a video...?

actually, what i don't understand is if that one is fully stand-alone or not. the video shows the dude turning the knob to open/close the turbo. neat, but i don't have a 3rd hand to keep tuning the turbo everytime i shift or mash the throttle. a circuit board and potentiometer isn't what i'd...

i should actually go do that now. i'm by myself, so video'ing is tough. if i get a trailer before then, that could happen. ;-)