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Pull the dist cap, and crank while using a short piece of wire from ground to close to the HV coil output to see if you're getting spark. If so, then your rotor or cap or wires are/is defective.

Memphis ought to have them.

Replaceable Bronze bushings, available from several SS supporting members.

Not part of either the original hot water or gasoline heater. 12V civvy stuff.

Rubber hose from the windshield bolt, then thru the double rubber grommet with the speedo cable (If I remember rightly).

The first thing I'd do is a compression test. If that shows fairly even across the board, I'd have the injectors rebuilt. Lots of places in the US can do it, usually it is a piece of junk that made it into one after a filter change or some such operation. In a high-mileage situation, the tip...

Your truck is cursed. It needs an exorcism. :eek:

I was referring to the military 24V Signal Stat box. It had to be used with a proprietary control handle. I'm aware they still make a lot of good automotive items, jut not that one.

All I've ever seen in 5-tons are regular size Zerks. I had your problem, and it turned out to be a worn-out chuck on the grease gun.

In post #6, I believe that is a trailer wheel. M715 wheels are a lockring type.

Those Crosby's are not the same, they need to be permanently swaged. The one used on most military winches is a screw-together job, with a bronze insert that supports the individual strands. A bench vice and a quality open-end wrench are all one needs to remove/install those. Something to be...

A clutch linkage is a lot easier to fix than a transmission...:unsure:

That Signal Stat turn signal control box is the very early attempt at such. Really junk, Don't even try to use that logic. Too bad your rig is all 12V now. Sad.

This is a dash I pulled some time ago. I wasn't trying to repair anything, rather salvage everything before it was scrapped. Not hard to do for firewall repairs, if one disconnects everything, pops out the instrument cluster and pulls the Bowden cables from wherever. Sorry 'bout the...

I've heard it said the early original naturally aspirated Multifuel 427 was the best one.

The 'Whistler' was the most desirable, and that was only because of it's note.

I've seen the entire dash panel removed to do those jobs, there aren't too many bolts to deal with.

Speedo cables are easy to deal with. Unscrew the nut, and just pull it off. You won't hurt anything. It is a good time to squirt a bit of oil down the cable, it likes to be lubed a little. Putting it back on is easy as well, just wiggle it in and run the nut up snug.

I sold Don a good running Continental 6602 engine, said to go in his Autocar tractor. I wonder if that ever happened, or is it still sitting on it's transport frame?

Now there is some rare info. Copy that.