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ok, but since you only need the winch and not the PTO or levers itselft, you should spend about $300 on this. that's my plan. :beer:

you can convert the PTO winch to hydraulic for at or less then that cost.

"in the mail" - ever heard that one before??? been finishing up small things: shifter, trans cover, re-adjusted throttle linkage, and working on mounting headlights. maybe tomorrow and i can get some install and proper shake-down done........ me hopes.

:ditto:

like i said, there is a source for the couplings...

i understand and concur, Ron. however, can you explain the consistant calcs that Gringle' obtained? i guess i just chalk that up to 'gross under-rating.'

where does this stuff come from? electric winches are rated by maximum line pull (achieved at bare drum). however, based on calculations performed by Gringle', the deuce winch was 'apparently' rated by minimum line pull (at full drum). or, it was just flat-out completely under-rated...

this is true, but i don't think you will find the alloy posted on this site - there are several members here that manufacture and sell shear pins out of the correct alloy. so...

i've done a ton of research on this and have collected many of the parts already. there is only one part that you will have trouble getting off-the-shelf or fabricating and i have a source on that part - the winch input shaft coupling. the motor stand is off-the-shelf - i can provide...

search "winch shear pins".

mine aren't balanced and run great through at least 65mph.

what? yes, the 'hub' is there, it's just inside of the brake drum. the actual 'hub' is the exact same part, front and rear.

actually, technically you can. however, you have to remove the brakes completely. i have two steer axles that i have done this to for a mud truck - the drums were ditched, hubs flipped, and pinion brakes were added. i had to machine the rotors some so that the lugs would clear the spindle...

there is an official name for this: it's called 'scrub radius' and it's the distance of the center of the tire/wheel from the steering knuckle joint (kingpin or ball joint). ideal setup is zero scrub radius as this would eliminate any forces exerted by hitting a bump/pothole while moving and...

starts and idles great! :lol: yes, you are quite right. today i scratched a few minor things off of the never-ending loose-ends list: new shifter hole in the trans cover plate new trans shifter re-adjusted throttle linkage; too twitchy and the idle pedal position was too high. yeah...

there's one attached to the engine that i need to get rid of. :razz:

that's about the best advice there is, right there!!!

UPDATE: she moved under her own power today!!!! ok ok, at first it was only about 5 feet. Flat Black and a buddy of his drove up to check out and chit-the-chat. it was great to meet them both! but while they were there i fired her up and did some back and forth brake check in the drive...

i actually had a couple different options on the winch. the first option is to keep it mechanical. there is a reversible PTO drive available for the NV4500 that would work almost exactly like the OE setup. it isn't a 2-spd unit in forward, but the ratios were similar in low and reverse. i'm...

not yet. i've never actually posted a vid, so i need to figure that out... good catch - yes, it's been tabbed. i will be around this weekend. well, it was absolutely the most convenient since it was already bolted behind the Cummins. however, the actual tranny in the truck is a rebuilt...