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Just finished putting two coats of Gillespie 383 green down and added tire pressure, rear window, bumper stars and fuel door stencils from Militarystencils.com Everything went as planned and it looks great.
I also added some interior placards, new side markers and tail lenses and managed to...
Dude that is funny! I just removed and reinstalled my starter last week and dropped the outboard bolt on my face! Luckily I had my mouth closed but that's all I could think about was " man if my mouth was open I would be looking like Loyd from dumb and dumber"
sorry, not that you look like Loyd...
Ya I guess you may be right. I want something the paint can bite onto so I'll start with 80 and then finish with 180 like suggested. Certainly I'm open to suggestions as this is my first project of this sort.
Thanks for the input for sure!
Hopefully in early October I'll be shooting it with 383 in preperation for an eventual 3 tone woodland camo job using Gillespie "CARC". The body work is pretty much set, just need to knock down any old paint with 400 grit and wipe with acetone and tape it. Hopefully, I can find some reasonable...
I too am sorry for your loss.
I think people often forget or take for granted that these vehicles we are driving have had long lives and can tell stories about what they have done or where they have been. We can certainly gain an attachment to these vehicles. A lot of us have driven vehicles...
Here are some pics of the completed floor. Not the best pics but it looks pretty good. Its two coats of 383 from Gilepsie.
Since these pics were taken there has been significant progress with re-assembling the interior so those will posted later tonight and tomorrow.
Enjoy!
I've got the Cox 200ml epoxy gun used for glueing panels and floor repairs. 3M makes a gun which runs around $70 and this one is $40 so if anyone needs to borrow it let me know.
I know for a fact it works with 3M and SEM 200 ml panel epoxies.
Its been a while since my last post but I've been chipping away at the passenger side floor so here is an update.
The rot wasn't as bad on this side as the drivers side but it seemed more wide spread if that makes sense. Small areas of rot dotted the kick plate area and the door threshold along...
Thanks for the comments gents,
I completely agree steelypip. I stayed away from sheetmetal screws and used truss heads, ( installed wet with sealant) and lock nuts and washers on the bottom. The bottom edges are fillet sealed and the protruding screw threads and nuts are coated with seem...
So today is a quick update on the floor pan repairs ongoing.
There was considerable rot at the drivers door threshold and the kickplate area. I had planned on using a joggled repair with panel bonding adhesive suggested by several members (since I'm not a welder) but due to the numerous contour...
Thanks man. This is the first time I've done anything like this and I'm pretty pleased with how its turning out. I studied this forum for two weeks or so gaining knowledge, tips and tricks in preparation. You guys have already done the hard work of trial and error. I'm just applying the...
So today we have a completed driver side door. I originally finished the door last week only to take it apart last night to replace a window regulator which my OCD would NOT let go:???:
First off I stripped the door of its main components, door panel, vent window etc so I could change all the...
That is so cool! I donated $25 when I initially requested the info so thank you very much CARNAC. It appears my M1009 was with the 827th QM Co US Army Reserve who was attached to the 24th ID from Ft. Riley during its eastern flank push into Kuwait during Operation Desert Storm! That would...