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What brand panels are you all using? 12v? 24v? 48v?

We are thinking of splitting to a system of two 2-12vAGM's in series (first set to the starter; second set to the PDP @h X1, with a 24/12 70a dc2dc converter between X1 and X2), and replacing the LBCD with a Victron Cyrix-ct 225a 12/24v battery combiner. At the same time it looks like we can...

Deleted a half baked idea once again leaving the purpose of a thread. Thank you for your patience with me—

What four pressures do you use and how do you obtain them? And what is the weight of your unit and use case?

I have the DANA/Spicer software. It works great. Thinking about adding a switch to change which pin(s) provide power to the ECU to create more pressure options. Is three settings enough? Would six be better? See the thread that starts here—

Thank you. I am thinking about trying to find the different programming different power routes may provide [H, M, or Z] that @GeneralDisorder mentioned on another thread. Thought you may have gone that route. I am wondering if I really need 6 or 9 different settings?

Would you share what settings you use on your high/low programs?

How much are you all paying to insure your MV's? We have an 2003 Stewart and Stevenson M1078A1, not for hire, private use. Liability, maximum on uninsured motorists and medical; what ever our typical deductible amount. With the agent who does our home and other vehicles, too. I think he has...

We are all making plans for the path we hope to travel. Life is what happens when you are busy making other plans. —Alen Saunders

Habitat has to be separate, like a trailer, a habitat must carry its own 'water'. Cab and chassis 24v 175 or 200a alternator, a 24v/12v 70a converter to run 12v side and accessories, four? batteries, (and a spare ether can), for winter starting after sitting unused two weeks at Alta, Big Sky...

I am still thinking running a 3126b or C7 cab and chassis, even with a 24v AC unit, a 28v 200a alternator with a 24v/12v 70a converter is the simplest, most economical way to use in-stock, reasonably available parts. That can be accomplished new, out of the box for about $2,000 and run reliably...

How do you all know it is the 100a in the diagram? Both diagrams reference 300a. I am trying learn, you all are so far ahead of me–

Two questions: 1— #45 looks like a bracket? 2— Wouldn't it be simpler and less expensive to go to a 24v alternator and a 24v/12v converter?

Any progress to report?

Are they torqued differently than a M1078?

Collecting while driving reminded me that once the torque converter is locked the rpm's are tied to speed and gearing, not the pedal. So, generally in 2C and 3C the pedal % and rpm's above matched, even under an uphill load. Though watching our Bluefire glass dash readouts added in the engine...

Here is the data we found using our Dearborn DPA III plus (thank you @GeneralDisorder I am grateful to have this equipment) while in neutral under no load. Essentially, linear until the last 20%. I will say the lag time is significant in the Dearborn software in comparison to our Bluefire...

The link shows that listing sold in December and provides no information about what was sold. Here is our unit: The pin out of the M939A2 model is different than the pin out of the M1078A1 model and caused a fault in our J1939 diagnostic wiring path which burned up R12 and R13 resistors. We...

Ours does not come on when changing CTIS modes. Though we have seen ABS lit while off roading in SAND. I read this reference you shared to be normal though caused by "road conditions" not CTIS mode setting. Also it is referring you to the "off-road ABS information" nearby in the manual...

Right. We have an M1078, @338ken has a M35A3. We helped him find insurance and have been trying to help with registration, too. No one is trying or suggesting to title or register vehicles falsely, thank you for your comments—