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I have seen that dielectric grease do just that. It literally falls off. I put it on the connections I soldered on my solar/battery setups I made for game cameras and it seemed worthless once it dried out. I will get some of that no-ox-id stuff. Thanks.

I am really feeling it is a ground issue myself. However, I just started it and turned the lights on and they all work properly. I have no idea how but I will take devine intervention any time it's offered! I will still clean all connections and ground locations come somewhat better weather...

So my newer M1082 came with LED lights all around. When I got it both tailights worked fine. About a month later I hooked up to it and the right one had half of the LEDs working but after a minute or so all of the LEDs began working on their own. This light did that every time thereafter. Today...

Yup, that voltmeter talks plain English (or whatever is your native tongue). When I first got the truck I was wondering "why a voltmeter and not a temperature gauge like so many 1 gauge vehicles have". I got that question answered when dealing with my glow plugs once cool wrather rolled around...

Ok. Thought I had some research to dig into there.

Hmm, thought my truck only served in Kuwait. Good to know.

Found an AAFES (PX) $0.25 round cardboard "gift certificate" in my 5-ton. A TM in a nylon case in one of the M1082s, as well as the electric interconnect.

Leaving the hubs locked in adds excessive wear on front differential, front u-joints (axles and propeller shaft), and most likely some wear in the transfer case since that transfer wasn't designed for full-time 4x4 (even if not put in 4x4 in transfer case. I used to have a civy full-time 4x4...

Lovin' it!!

Good call. It popped loose fairly easily and I was in gravel so the dragging of one axle was effortless. I feathered the throttle. I will keep the hammer trick in mind if it does it again and isn't so easy to break loose.

Road tested mine yesterday checking the new speedometer I installed last week (which didn't remedy it). Following the TM, I changed it first with a "known working unit". So the cable must be the issue. I did previously put a drill on the lower end of the cable with my cell phone on video to see...

Take that diamond plate from above the tank and you will see the float assembly where the wire connects. It has screws around it's perimeter (approx. 3" round) and then you can carefully wriggle it out of there. Mine had brass floats and both were deteriorated and crushed. The screws were a real...

Got right high beam headlight working again, as well as right front turn signal and side marker. Had a bad connection in a crimp and the headlight sockets both are going to need replaced eventually. I jarred them both changing the inner fender. Was thinking for sure it was a bad ground when...

Truck looks nice.

Agreed!

GVWR rules! Go big!

Can I whine too? I had a CUCV with two trailers attached but was informed that only the truck or one of the trailers was the entry. Then later see tractor trailer combos put up as one unit. I feel any combo should be counted as one unit since that is how the highway patrol looks at it. But, I...

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp%3Ftechid%3D11&ved=0ahUKEwipt66UrJzRAhWFPCYKHU_pBBkQFggaMAA&usg=AFQjCNGb1oAmj-MyyrLnilUK7q9nych6Ow&sig2=SYqNBfP2WckVrRxG3RbxnQ

Pre 2000 has three digits with the last one being the year, leaving one uninformed which decade. After 2000 there are 4 digits and the last two are the year.

I have a couple on from the late 90s. Not up front, of course.