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Thanks Rory. I probably won't know exactly how well my modified lights will work until I try them in real-world conditions, but on the workbench, they seem to be very bright, with a major, attention-getting increase in brightness between the parking/tail light and the signal light. I tried...

To be honest, it's a rather tedious process, but as long as I'm learning something and getting a decent result, it's worth a bit of fuss. :)

The original ID data plate for my 1954 M37 was missing, so I used Adobe InDesign to create what I think is a pretty accurate facsimile of the original ID data plate design that is appropriate for my truck, as shown below: There were several steps involved in creating a new etched-aluminum...

After doing more searching, as well as looking at images that I've been sent, I think there were probably three different 'original' ID data plate designs used on M37 trucks (not including M37B1), and that any other ID plates, such as shown in the above post, were likely replacement plates to be...

One more photo of the accelerator return spring attachment hole for your viewing pleasure. If the flange with the hole is missing, you should be able to easily make a little bracket that can be attached in the same location. Before you try making a spring extension, see if you can find the...

This diagram from TM 9-2320-212-34P doesn't show the attach point for the spring, but perhaps it could be of some use. Items 11 and 12 are listed as: FSN 5360-536-2617, Spring, Helical Extension: accelerator pedal return 7001073 (19207) FSN 5340-832-7929, Extension, Return Spring: accelerator...

More work on the lights. I cut two rectangular pieces out of an amber turn signal lens for a late-80s Toyota pickup. I also cut two rectangular pieces from a red brake light lens (not shown) for some kind of Honda all-terrain vehicle. I just installed the amber and red pieces in what were...

As mentioned earlier, I want the front and rear turn signal/stop lights to retain their original 'outward' appearance, but I want to increase their visibility when in use. One thing that I plan to do is substitute LED lamps for the original incandescent bulbs. The other thing that I want to...

Back to work on the M37 this week. I've just started restoring the headlights. I blasted, primed, and painted the brackets that mount the headlights on the fenders, as well as the zinc/pot metal brackets that go under the headlight bodies. I just received a set of replacement rubber headlight...

This might be considered a FIFTH style of data plate. This plate was on my 1954 M37 when I bought it. Physical evidence suggests that my truck had been converted to an M42 Command Truck, including radio gear, at some point in its history, at which time the original M37 ID plate would have been...

I've started doing a bit of research on the M37 main ID/data plate...the one that includes the vehicle's serial number, contract number, etc. At the moment, I'm just looking for information about the M37 plate (not an M37B1 or other variants like the M42, M43, V141, etc., although those may...

Not unusual to have a replacement engine of questionable pedigree. I wouldn't lose sleep over it. If you're really concerned about it, it shouldn't be hard to find a T245 mill in running condition that's gathering dust after it was swapped for something more exotic, like a diesel or V8...

Your pictures of the 1953 and 1954 plates look correct for original plates, as far as I can tell. I'm just guessing that your photo of the NOS plate with upper- and lower-case text shows what might have been intended as a replacement plate, but more research needed. There were situations where...

Actually, I think some M37s may have had original data plates like that one from VPW. I just haven't seen an original plate of that type in person...yet. I'm going to do a bit of research on the topic and see what I can find out, since I'd like to have a plate that is appropriate for my 1954 M37.

Thanks for the links, but the original 1954 M37 main ID plates (at least the ones that I've seen) have all upper-case characters, rather than a mix of upper- and lower-case characters. If someone has an original main ID plate with mixed upper- and lower-case characters, please post a photo of...

Color-coded wiring is a very nice way to keep things in order without having to fuss with meters or tags. That said, my plan for my M37 is to keep it primarily original, other than a few safety mods, so I'm staying with original-type black wiring. CuNi brake line is becoming quite popular...

It turns out that for duplicating the stamped characters on a replacement main data plate, it appears that I will need 3/32" letter/character stamps instead of 1/8" stamps, so I just ordered a set. I've also been trying to locate an accurate reproduction main data plate. Not much luck so far. I...

The Southwire automotive wire and the mil-spec wire I bought are both AWG 14, but the mil-spec wire has Hypalon insulation that is not only thicker, but more flexible than the Southwire, which has PVC insulation. I don't like working with stiff wire. Here's where I bought the mil-spec wiring...

It shouldn't be hard to find a good used military distributor body and oil pump, especially since quite a few people have M37s with civilian ignition, hence some spare take-outs should be lying around. As to coil operating current ranges, that can vary. The coil manufacturer should be able to...

You should be able to find a 24V ignition coil. The distributor doesn't care about the voltage. You might consider a Pertronix breakerless ignition conversion. I would call Pertronix and tell them exactly what distributor model you have, and mention that the system is 24V. They may be able to...