Search results

I took the valve body apart. The cork washers behind the coils gave me pause, but the rest of the disassembly was straightforward. I was afraid I'd destroy the cork washers in removing them, but with patience and some dental tools I got them loose and out with no damage. First photo shows the...

That's likely. I'm trying to trace through the wiring to figure this out. Is there a way to manually work the valve, and see if it moves freely? I'd love to see documentation about how to effectively troubleshoot these.

The kids will change their own fluids whenever they need to, usually at the most inopportune moment.

The fan blows air, I get fuel out the bleeder, but no heat. I pulled the glow plug, a coil which looks like an old-school car cigarette lighter on the end of a long spring. I closed the fuel valve, turned on the heater, and the coil immediately glowed hot. I get no diesel smell, so it seems...

Well, I feel like an idiot! You guys ROCK! Thanks! In my defense, I have to get into an unfamiliar yoga position just to reach a camera back there to take a picture of the thing... It never occurred to me that I would have 2 connectors there...

Me too! I've tried several. No luck yet...

The M1010 has 4 focus lights in the back. One of the switches failed. I couldn't find an exact replacement, so I replaced it with a toggle switch. It's not original, but the light works now. I had to grind down the toggle switch to make it fit. I didn't modify the light, so I can go back to...

I took my M1010 to the service station that services all the landscapers' trucks. They're used to 1-ton diesel pickups. They thought the truck was way cool. They crowded around, checking out all aspects of the truck. They like the fact that it has no computers -- it lets them be mechanics...

Was it leaking before you replaced the CDR? If not, I'd look for vacuum leaks in the areas you touched.

The crankcase vacuum depends on a good seal at the oil cap, the dip stick, the CDR, and all the vacuum lines associated with the CDR. One member put his air filter in wrong, killed the crankcase vacuum, and suddenly leaked oil. For me, it was cracked vacuum lines and a dried-out oil cap...

Yes. I haven't yet found a connector to match it, though...

If you take it off road, the slide-out sounds easily damaged. The cable drop seems hard to damage.

How much load is enough? My alternators put out 5112. watts which is 6.9 hp when the batteries need charging. Is that enough load on the engine to avoid the problems you describe?

I, for one, would like to know how to do this.

My truck runs antennaclimber's GP controller. It works great! Highly recommended. (As far as I know, it's also the only viable option if you need a new GP controller.) If you're running a 30-year-old GP controller, it might be wise to get a spare. I'm no electronics expert, but my original...

Youtube link in the post above doesn't work for me. Link below does, at least for me. Is this the video you had in mind? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idB8VA1bVLk

I'm looking for non-MRE recipes folks use in these, preferably recipes that require no refrigeration. I'm thinking in terms of things like dried foods in a ziplock steamer bag, where you just add water and cook in the MRE heater. Is there a place where folks who use these share recipes? edit...

Is there a better source for a 700R4? Maybe someone on SS rebuilds them?

Just got back from NAPA. I handed them my shredded 1/2" FHP belt, and they gave me this: The FHP belt lasted me 18 days, about 200 miles. They tell me this HD belt will last longer, and that the FHP was not right for the truck. That's not what they told me 18 days ago. The new belt is $8...

The M1010 box heater is PN 10530B. I found the TM for the 10560G, TM 9-2540-205-24&p. I worked through the troubleshooting section to the point where I'm supposed to remove the igniter. But my 10530B doesn't match the TM's 10560G pictures, so I'm hoping someone can point me to the right TM...