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There wasn't really any information. It was a post where he claimed he rebuilt it. Which he may very well have.

There are people that run egt's closer to 1300 and don't have a problem. Not saying it's a good idea. But it is possible. But as Chris said these pistons aren't pure aluminum. They can handle higher than 1200. Not that it's the best idea.

Except these pistons are an alloy. Aluminum also melts at 1220°F.

A 012 works better for the fuel control rod. The other 2 are the correct size. This is an unusual way for an injector pump to leak. At least not due to an o ring failure.

Different strokes for different folks. Some like as oe as possible. I'm of the mindset if I can make it perform better I'm all for it. If I had the money to drop a lly duramax and allison in my truck I'd do it in a heartbeat. Computerized injection and timing systems don't scare me in the...

Ditto.

As long as you can get a cheap core the rebuilt units aren't too bad. In my experience they are quite durable.

No the deuce brakes aren't bad. I don't have a particular dislike of them. But I do see the appeal of hydro-max. On a class 6 or 7 truck it's amazing how they stop like a car. Relatively speaking. In fact in the long run such a conversion will end up being cheaper as airpacks become ever...

You ever driven a truck with bosch hydro-max? The deuce brakes don't hold a candle to it. Unfortunately there isn't a good way to use it with military trailers.

Ya I'm a little confused here. If you file the collars thinner then they will crush the o rings even less making a leak worse. If you believe your getting fuel contamination in your engine oil only after driving it hard you should pressure test the booster pump.

I'm just taking a shot in the dark but could cylinder pressure be bypassing the outside of the cylinder liners? The reason I say this is I remember there being 2 or 3 different sizes of liner and piston kits mentioned in the tm. Something about an x and a y designating the size. Don't know if...

Ditto

I'd also check the heads for cracks.

That's what I ended up doing. Well that and a home made rig of rubber washers and fender washers since all of the hardware for the cable end was missing on my truck.

It's a double lip seal in the booster pump. The o rings are under the hydraulic head and around the fuel control rod.

Ouch. I know that one hurt.

Right. I used inserts from the hardware store. Worked fine for me. Doesn't seem to work every time though. I don't really have an answer as to why.

They had been on the truck for 40 years. Mine isn't the only one I have seen that didn't have them either. I did add the inserts when I redid the lines.

My lines didn't even have inserts in them.

How your current cable is set up is about as strong as it gets. All of my cable ends on my drilling rig are crimped that way. So far I have yet to have a cable fail because of an end crimp.