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I thought heat helped precipitate water?

Ya I was actually thinking of doing that this coming up weekend.

Ah ok. Now I'm picturing your filter set up.

That's what I was getting at. I know your truck has a clean tank. At least I hope it is since you swapped it. You need to figure out if your storage tanks are leaking or if your fuel source is contaminated. I have had diesel sit for very long periods and not fog up like that. Also fuel...

You are correct. Diesel is hydroscopic. That being said the problem you describe is way beyond normal contamination levels. Especially as much as you drive your truck. Mine sits for months and I don't have this problem. You can never filter too much. At least I don't guess you can. Never...

Ya I get what you were shooting at. I guess what I was trying to say is if your fuel is that dirty I'd try and find the underlying problem. Especially since you went through all of the trouble to swap fuel tanks on your truck. For the cost of these filters you could get a small centrifuge. I...

No, runflats and beadlocks aren't necessary. Beadlocks are nice to have if you off road hard. If you choose to get some be sure to get the correct width for your wheel. For example most industrial 2 piece wheels (5 ton, most mrap, etc.) Are 10 inches wide. So you need a a beadlock for a 10...

Ok so your getting water into your holding tank? Am I understanding you correctly? Irregardless of which tank you are getting contamination into, you are either getting tainted fuel or your tank is leaking water in. You shouldn't have to use more filtration than what you already have.

It's hard for me to say just looking at the pictures but minor sidewall cracking isn't the end of the world. If the cracking goes all the way around the tire then I would run them as rears. If the cracking is only on one area forming a crecent shape then replace that tire immediately. This...

Have you tried waterblok filters?

That worn out key is allowing the balancer to shift from side to side ever so slightly when you step on the throttle and let off the throttle. As others have said inspect the key slot in the crank carefully. In fact when you get or make a new square key put it in the slot. If it doesn't fit...

Actually what you are thinking of has been done. It will require custom torque rods that have been lengthed and take a 5 ton spring pack with a few of the leaves removed. You may also need to relocate the fuel tank. I know you do with 16.00s. Not sure with 14.00s.

On the m35a3 they eliminated the j pipe. Doesn't seem to be a problem.

Cheaper than a "c" turbo. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006GK1XY/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?pc_redir=T1

Add a muffler and the "d" turbo kinda whistles.

Yes the welds will rust and they will be brittle. I would never suggest this technique for anything structural. But, we are talking about holding a muffler in place.

Really? The best way to weld stainless to mild with a mig is to use stainless wire and tri mix gas. However in this application regular steel wire and 75/25 gas will work fine. May not be the prettiest weld but it will hold in this application.

You can weld stainless to mild steel with a mig welder. What do you think muffler shops use? It won't be the strongest bond ever but it will hold a muffler in place.

No

100% stainless construction and it is NOT a glass pack. Yes it is impressive how much they deaden sound. Even a sound clip doesn't do this little muffler justice. O and it WON'T affect egt's.