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The "standard" 1/4" windshield gives you no more ballistic protection then any other auto windshield.

If you have at least one you can have them cut at your local glass co.

You must have a good set of batteries to spin the engine fast enough to get the IP to work, that may be your entire problem, or not:eek: Do you still have the original IP and is the shaft seized?????

Ok I had to laugh when I read the edit of the title. It was not the sock, it was a grossly contaminated fuel tank, and you are along way from a final resolution just by removing the sock.;)

look at the upper drive gear as the engine is cranked it may be obvious

One thing you could do is pull the plug (oil fill pipe) in front of the cam gear, align the timing marks on the harmonic balancer, mark the upper IP gear with chalk, then crank the engine for a little bit, align the timing marks again and see if the timing gear agrees of course the timing marks...

What I meant was the shaft seized??? If it was it is very likely the key in the lower IP drive gear has sheared and the IP is ether not turning or turning too slow because it is slipping as it tries to build pressure and of course it would be out of time. This would be logical that it could make...

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Only three things must happen for a good IP to inject fuel. 1, the pump shaft must be turning 2, the IP must be receiving fuel 3, the shutdown linkage must be in the run position. Is it possible the original IP was seized? And you say you are still getting fuel out the return fitting? Have you...

Another big day in the DuraVee, ran about 170 miles today, the last "run" was an 86 mile round trip down US181 and back at 3PM It was 95 deg but the killer was the 18PMH cross wind. These wind generators show that problem, in my experience a 45 deg cross wind against ether the Port or Starboard...

You can run ALL the wiring out the passenger side with a little slack so you can simply swing the doghouse out of the way

If he is getting fuel out of the return port on the IP then the IP is getting fuel. Is it possible you installed a 12V IP and the solenoid is now fried, do you hear a click from the IP when the run switch is put into run? ALSO remember any time you switch the run switch to OFF you MUST wait at...

I would put a filter on the low side to catch any crap before it gets into the compressor.

If it were me I would pop the inst. panel and look for 24V at the back of the fan switch. Is the alt charging? there is a relay in the PCB box that sends 24V to CB1 as you can see by the schematic that feeds the fan switch, but it also powers the IGN. terminal on the alt, if it that relay was...

The sock was suggested in post 18, and the OP said in post #20 "Filter and housing were terrible. Makes me suspicious of the fuel tank" Which would have been the natural progression of troubleshooting as all that crap had to come from somewhere. Unfortunately it took 4 more pages and a lift...

It was a gorgeous day down here in S TX today, I put almost 200 miles on the DuraVee getting supplies. Here is the view while approaching the new ship channel bridge in CC,9 (EDIT driving south) it is aligned perfectly with the road as it is taking the same path as the causeway and RR tracks...

IMHO the entire reason to go to a spin on is to get rid of that OEM filter that is a PITA to work with, not to mention being a canister filter and should definitely not be the "final safety" filter in your system if you are going to run multiple filters. If you want to keep the OEM as the "final...

A volt/ohm meter, basic electrical trouble shooting and the schematic will get you the results you are looking for. Sorry I can't help you with the volt meter:D

Why would you want to keep the OEM filter? Yes, Chinese Buffet in Portland TX today, A couple hundred miles on the DuraVee today trying to pick up parts for the Bobcat 15C auger. The seals and the 1 1/4 cold rolled pin was no problem, finding a piece of 1 1/4 SCH80 pipe to repair the swivel...

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