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The 208 was my only time taking a real shock in many years doing heavy electrical. The idea of cutting a "run away" starters wire brought the thought back to me.
I'm probably way off base...maybe it would be like a pulling a welding ark and not have the explosive effect that I envisioned.
Good luck cutting it under what is next to a fault condition that could be hundreds of amps. It reminds me of cutting a 3 phase 208 all at the same time live.
I would consider a second solenoid in series myself, switch activated.
Tin AND silver plated...4 gauge. Does it have 600v embossed into the jacket or say 600v? Works for single or 3 phase, around 80 amps. Some scrap yards take money off for the plated wire. Is around $4/ft to buy new (not plated). Wire a generator.
All of the components are readily available for the 1610 u-joints including flange yokes, weld yokes, male and female slip yokes and tube. Tube seems to have different thickness, 3.5" dia.
Yes, been through the asbestos training for my demolition projects too and had to school the local zoning in court about what was regulated and what wasn't, friable and non-friable. I made fiberglass friable when I cut it. I wonder if the gov calls it out as bad as asbestos in regs?
I was outside and noticed the dust so took care to be up-wind for (not) breathing it. I'll find a mask. I got some on arms and hands that I should have protected from handling it. Next time gets some water to help control it too...hose is right there.
I really like your Herculiner install as well WtG. Since you talk gallons, that seems to narrow application. Do you have a gun that will spray it?
Re the side for my A3 deuce I posted earlier, here is what I'm doing (1/2 done). Cleaned, shortened, straightened, primer and paint uprights and...
Weller, thanks.
I once bought a salvage bridge that was claimed to be 90 ton. It was maybe 70....so I understand having stock of supplies, especially steel.
I cut mine to 24" (-3") and put clear yellow pine inside them, 1 9/16"x 1 1/8" with rounded corners. I'm getting 1.5" x 2.0" steel...
Weller....don't go to the trouble unless it's handy.
I called my steel supplier for sizes of tubing and Cole Hardwood to help me mill some ash that will fit in the uprights I salvaged. Cole will cut the ash to 1 9/16 x 1 1/8" and I will round the corners with a router. I'll soak them in oil...
Welled, can you put a picture of the angle/wood upright?
I have some 1/4" cherry wood that helps on the m35 bed that came off and became a trailer. Even then, not tied to the cross bars they move around and let pools form just sitting, not going down the road.
Yes, I looked it up and they would be heavier. With some modification, the OEM cover might work. One of the pictures I saw had corrugated steel roof. It looked nice, probably not for a road vehicle though. I may go to fireproof canvas for both the bed and cab soft top outer layer. I have...
I've had a few times that seats would be nice, but only if they could legally haul people, and that would probably require seat belts and more structure. If it were done right, probably worth at least $30 more. I will be sticking to the fixed rack but with an alteration to get front bed access...
I'm using the M105 bed on my A3 4x4 project and want a strong frame and canvas cover. I salvaged the uprights from the sides in the picture, but they are not strong and a couple are bent where the corners attach. All in all, it seems rather flimsy and going down the road at 50, might not be...
If you mean me, I do it at the Rochester branch. Add about 10 trailers to my list for MV titles, a few of which were "assembled"....which requires 2 police checks, one to issue the number and one to show it's properly attached. The "assembled" are the only ones I needed photo's for.