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That wire like just about every wire goes into a harness so you cannot "follow" it.

Have you downloaded the TMs including the maint TM with the schematics? You are looking for wire tag #26 at the horn, #25 goes to the horn switch in the steering wheel.

The wire going to the steering column is the wrong side of the circuit, the horn button grounds the horn completing the circuit. If you look at the schematic above you are looking for wire tag 467 coming out of the light switch, that powers the turn signals and horn. Do not forget to fuse the...

Yes stop/service drive, not hot all the time.

The horn is circuit #26A it is connected to terminal J on the light switch and is not powered except in stop/service drive. Unless some are different, I just tested the R1 in my shop and the horn does not work with the light switch off.

That is a reusable gasket, the factory ones are the best, I always replace the pan though. Edit, in this case I would probably replace the gasket with a new factory one since obviously whomever worked on it last did not know squat, never use a sealer on a pan gasket.

Welcome to the SS forums!!

Curious, when you have the pressure gauge attached what does it do when you get to a hard spot? Also does the problem get better or worse when you run the engine at high idle?

So you still have tight spots even with the linkage removed? I cannot see how the hydroboost could give you repeatable tight spots at the same steering positions, you said it happened even with the engine off, again cannot see how the hydroboost could affect that... But yes if you can you can...

I am not sure why you have not received an answer retiredwarhorses said he has installed several of them and for sure some others have also.

Chart

You still look a little low, there are many charts out there for the R-134A that show the desired pressures depending on ambient temperature, these are with the fan on high and at 1800-2000RPM But the low pressure switch should be allowing the compressor come on although it may be short cycling.

Glad you found the bad switch, that was starting to look suspect, yes the valve is closed (powered) in AC mode, failure of this valve is very common, you can force it closed, many replace it with a manually controlled valve and just switch it depending on the season. Yes there is a drain hose...

I got to the point I could test drive the truck on my ranch road, this is a very nice truck, very "peppy" great oil pressure, runs like a watch. I really wish and am thinking of maybe keeping this one as it is the best one I have had my hands on. It has all the advantages of an A2 with the...

I would say that meter is toast.

Also at this point explain what you are trying to do, get the cond fans to run, get the comp. to kick in or something else.

Does your meter work when you measure the battery voltage? Also you need to get ground for the neg lead from the engine block or battery, never from the body. You may have a bad A/C switch

"Upper edge of shroud must align with radiator tank tank seam" Seems self explanatory to me.

BTW the labels low and high speed on wires 399 and 400 behind the blower switch are backwards, the wire 400 out of the fan switch is low speed..... 400 goes to the low speed resistor, 399 bypasses the resistor for high speed at least on this schematic.

Until you actually need high blower on the evap (filling of coolant) do all testing with the blower on low, this will bypass any possible issue with the diode in the fan circuit. If you can get the cond fans to run by jumping the low pressure switch then the only things left in the comp. clutch...