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Moved thread.

Contact @gimpyrobb, he has those TC (NIB) and I'm sure he would sell you one for a very reasonable price.

I don't think so; the solenoid core spring will absorb much more than that wear. During operation, while engaged, the bendix pinion will rest against the stop collar, held there by the (spring-loaded) fork. Some wear at those fork knobs is inevitable. That's why we put some moly grease in that...

It's all here: TM 9-2320-280-34, Chapter 6-6. STARTER REPAIR

That bendix should have come out easily. Did you not remove the pin (#10), where the fork pivots?

Just compare the number of bolts on both wheels.... (And there are many more reasons, for the answer being a big NO.)

Sadly it's not a bolt-on,; we all have tried that...…. but somehow those 6 studs on the M35 hub (BC = 8.75") don't seem to match the 10 holes of the FMTV wheels (BC = 11.25")....:razz:

:ditto: what Mogman said... To me, that bendix has seen much better days... They aren't that expensive, so I would definitely install a new replacement, before reassembly. Besides that I'm wondering why that stop collar has to be so thick? That looks like at least 1/2" (?) If this was mine...

With -18mm offset those will stick out even further than the ones I linked to, in post #4. Ideally, we want something around +50mm (positive offset), but I doubt that such do exist. Regarding their hub bore, 122.1mm is OK. 122.0mm is what I just confirmed, on the stock wheels.

165.1 mm = 6.5 inches Actually none.... This wheel has the most backspace but it's still only 5", instead of the stock 7". That means that the tire/wheel will stick out at least 2 inches. At 122.4 mm its hub bore might be too small, too. (will confirm tomorrow).

No, you need wheels with a 8-on-6.5" pattern. And the backspace of the stock wheels is 7 inches, FYR.

We never heard of it - and probably never will... Really, for me that would be the absolute last thing to do, from a long list of possible improvements for these engines. At the top of my list is correct balancing of all internals! (before someone asks...)

OK, enough of this! We don't need to see what you see, just because you choose to save $15 a year... Please contact our Admin directly via PM, about this matter.

Reason is, good NOS lock washers have been available for all these years, so no need to tool-up for replicas... That may have changed lately, since I see a lot of junk parts being offered on eBay. If enough interest I'd have no problem making a drawing with exact dims and post it here. Edit...

Exactly. It takes a 6202 LLU (30*62*16, sealed). BTW, MF cranks are all the same, for the various models. Not so the flywheels.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m35-early-timken-vs-rockwell-differences.210404/#post-2457731

Your MRAP wheels have the DOT stamp, too. And you aren't modifying anything on the wheel itself....

You want the ones stamped "973", with the red color ring.

The plate will deform or bend long before those 10 bolts rip out. But hey, use 1" bolts, if it makes you feel safer. Just let's not forget: all these modifications are OK for "off road use only".......

Thanks, hope it helps... (I just edited your post to add the missing, lower portion of my drawing) Actually any machinist should be able to make these adapters, having only that PDF file.