Search results

The stock mechanical fuel pump is more then adequate to support a turbo charged 6.2 or 6.5. Running an electric pump on a switch is nice to use as a back up, to prime after a filter change, or if you just want to fill a bucket with some diesel. 2cents

I doubt it's a head gasket. I've blown them twice now. And the symptoms are pressurizing the coolant system, pushing all the coolant out of the overflow, low operating temperatures, and terrible fuel mileage. Also at 20MPG's it's getting good compression so the rings are good and the cylinders...

Well the 20MPG says it's running healthy. You might have an air leak somewhere. I'd *temporarily* replace the return fuel hose coming out of the top of the injection pump, with a clear piece of hose to see if your getting any bubbles.

My original one was looking pretty crusty so I bought 2 new ones. I just keep a clean one on the shelf, then swap it out as needed, cleaning the other out before putting it on the shelf so it can wait it's next turn. 2cents

You can tell when they are full. You'll start using a bunch of oil in between oil changes. If they're not old, you can clean them out with some diesel fuel and put them back in service.

Yeah it came as pictured. I liked it for the options it offered such as the fuel heater, sight bowl/water separator, and even an extra port for a fuel gauge. I think they also offer a top with a big rubber plunger so you can prime the system. Come to think of it I might order one of those soon.

Well there's this one of the fuel filter and the battery tray mod I did. The fuel filter base basically just bolted into the stock bolt holes. I think I did use a coupe spacers so the fuel heater would clear the buss bar.

The coolant at the back of the motor is only A higher temperature because it's trapped. If "theoretically" your heater core trick was able to move this coolant, and balance the cylinder temperatures. Then you'd only be getting the 190°-195° into the heater core. And if it didn't solve the flow...

This is the fuel filter & base I installed. It's a (Stanadyne FM100 fuel manager) with a clear sight bowl & petcock on the bottom. And that thing sticking out the left side is a fuel heater probe. It's a little pricey, I think I paid over $100.00

No of course the flex plate and smoke have Nothing to do with one another. But with 30 year old vehicles, it's possible to have multiple problems at onceaua. A loose flex plate can sound a lot like rod knock. As fore mentioned I'd check the simple stuff first like fuel. I few guy's I follow on...

I'm going to throw this out there. Have you pulled the bell housing inspection cover. And checked the fLex plate to torque converter bolts?

I understand that. But your not going to be running the heat in the summer. So heat exchange will only happen in the winter.

Yeah but its not going to be any hotter. You MIGHT help the flow problem in the back of the heads but doubtful? and if at all only in the winter. And it would only then be sending 190°-195° coolant to the heater core, as per the thermostat. So still no more heat in the cabin. Our CUCV's have...

I think you guys are missing one critical point. And that is "better heat" would mean more engine heat over all. I have installed the coolant bypass kit and bin surprisingly pleased with the results. The bypass simply takes away the hot spots thus helping the engine maintain proper, balanced...

At this point I have fixed the problem by switching to the civilian filler tube & cap. Which works much better BTW, then the big CUCV tube. It holds the pump nozzle better so it doesn't keep shutting off, and doesn't splash back when it's full. But I am still curious about the original CUCV cap...

Call it intuition,:carnac: but I'll bet this cap and some variant of this filler tube was used on some other GM vehicle, tractor, or equipment. And with the right part numbers, and/or search parameters can be cross referenced to a current off the shelf supply.

Agreed perhaps not a filler tube on a semi, but more specifically perhaps a school bus, fire truck or some other C70 variant with the body over the fuel tank. It just seems that this large diameter cap would be pretty standard? Especially a wearable safety item such as a plastic ratcheting fuel...

(Just to clarify) I'm a business man myself, I don't mind paying for one, and wasn't asking for a hand out. I was just looking for help finding a replacement new or old within reason.:shrugs: I checked all the part numbers you provided on Stant's web site, and on Ebay, but to no avail. I suppose...

Well this is the solution I came up with I used a civilian filler neck I had laying around for a future duel tank mod. As you can see in the picture they are completely different in every way. Including the body flange, rubber hose, and mounting holes. I like the idea of fitting with my theme...

No the chain was missing when I bought the truck.