Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
I'm going to guess there was a substantial delta in velocities to cause this. So I'd be more worried about being stuck as the last guy in a traffic slow down and the truck that's a mile back not noticing.
The 803's aren't any better for the fuel / water separator. I had to remove the separator and base completely from the unit and introduce it to my bench vise and strap wrench. And even then it came off in pieces.
Well, it was more than a 30 minute job, but inexperience.
So all the positive diodes were good, 2 on the negative side had no resistance at all from either direction. So replaced the negative half. (Turns out I'd ordered spare parts a few months ago.)
Re-mounted the alternator, hooked it up...
I also hooked my Sigtronics to a radio. So I get local wired hot mic and PTT for transmit when on trail.
Can't seem to get the cell phone working, but I'm messing with capacitors and all instead of just buying an adapter like a sane person does.
Sigtronics Transcom II and S-20 headsets. Works off 24V, the 4 port modules are pretty easy to find on ebay.
Managed to be patient and get the intercom for about $100, and averaged ~$40 each for the headsets. Made a long cord so someone can wear a headset and stand outside the truck for backing...
I'm hoping for 4 bad diodes. The math works for that to explain 9.2VDC given the voltage on the inspection sticker. (28.1V)
What I need to do I just realized his hook the scope up the just the alternator with the batteries removed and see what that 9.2V looks like before I pull it off.
I got this one with dead batteries and 76 hours on it, which makes me suspect infant mortality on some part of the alternator. (Feb 2012 reset, alternator with a 2011 QA inspection sticker on it.)
I'll be pulling the alternator off soon as I get a chance and tearing it apart.
Ok, been a while on this, but finally got time to look at it more. (Plus, I plum forgot with a bunch of other stuff happening)
The wiring all looks right. I unhooked the positive from the alternator and measured from ground to the positive wires, 27V before starting. So they seem to have...
The TM for the 939 series lists the PTO as NSN 2520-01-105-6465 which lists manufactures as Dana Corp.
It's a PITA to mount, but other than that it's worked well.
Went to start the truck to move it before the windstorm we're supposed to get.
Checked the NOCO before getting in, and showed charge 100% and in the green.
Turned on the battery disconnect, hit the master switch. Battery gauge in the green.
Truck to ON, ABS clickity clickity, Start...
I can't find the specific standard easily, but even the national grid doesn't maintain 60Hz constantly. There's an acceptable level of drift.
The power companies would in the past make up for it at night. Not sure if they still do based on some experiment conducted in 2011.
So, had to re-do the selector valve to make it look at bit neater.
Need to weld the hose clamps on. And fab the extra bed support.
But as with anything, my welder had an alternate idea:
So instead of working on the truck, I get to learn how good Miller's warranty and customer service is...
Sounds like loose / broken / open neutral somewhere.
240V Line to Line, 34V L1 to N, 190V L2 to N add those two and get 224V.
This is what happens when the neutral doesn't return to the power source, you get the power driven through L1 to N, and then from N to L2. But the voltage lost in each...
While the one item I bought had fluids in it, I've heard storied of everything you can imagine. From transformers that were "drained" by sticking a pump into it just to the top of the core and sucking off fluid to that level to 5 tons with a pick axe taken to the oil pan.
"Fluids drained" scare...