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Same with a relay. A relay is only polarity conscious when it has an installed diode, like is specced on our trucks, so the panel is wired so pin 86 is always + and pin 85 is always ground…

Yep, that's the diagram... Fly-back diodes are good practice to lessen arcing on the controlling sw and resultant noise, but are not typically necessary. they also help the field collapse a little faster, and of course the larger the coil the larger the fly-back, which is where the large aux...

I have never seen a fly-back diode internal to a solenoid coil, and unless they already grounded one side of it, the solenoid coil is not polarity sensitive. many starters already have one coil lead tied to ground on the starter case and no second terminal to connect to. The second terminal...

it isn’t possibly locked is it? If it were locked, like the center diff in an AWD when you go into mode, if would cause a lot of gear loading on a hard surface, do not use mode/4wd on hard surfaces… when you select mode the TCU powers a air solenoid valve under the passenger dash next to the...

What I usually do is bare metal patch, thin coat of silicone grease or copper coat(copper impregnated conductive grease) where they touch, torque in place and then layer of spray paint or cold galv compound to keep the weather and corrosion out… i really need to do a volt drop test video one of...

If I can hold my hand on it for 5 seconds, that is around 150F. Shouldn’t be much hotter than that… is it hot in the middle or out on the end of the hubs. heat is a factor of friction/load. Are the brakes dragging?

You could probably take a small alligator clip lead and connect between the ground leg on the aux start, over to where the ground lug connects to the main starter solenoid(has a short wire that runs tot he main starter ground lug on the front end of the start motor) and it will work fine untill...

Cool, you got it with a regular wrench it looked pretty tight. Mine is all exposed now. Looks like you have a workable plan!

No, I havn't taken mine off yet. One thing I do recall from the last time the thought crossed my pea brain is that the wobble cap on top of the vent is not very tall, so it may take a special wrench to reach in under the edge of the cap to unscrew it from the casing…

So that big solenoid was going click but it wouldn’t crank Untill you shorted across its big terminals? As mentioned, not a fancy part, anyplace that has truck parts around you should have one of these on the shelf…

Probably not. The button lights switch is a powered electronic control device that consumes power so requires a return/ground path for its operating current to flow thru. The 3 lever is simply electrical contacts, so no ground required…

A0 lighting ckt. Basically the same throughout the versions, with the exception of the brake ckt. On the A0 the pedal pressure switches provide a ground, in the A1s they changed to the switches providing DC power…

The A0 comp gets its air pre turbo so no added boost. The 150PSI relief on the dryer should be fine.

In the case of the ground for the aux relay look in the wire bundle adjacent to the starter. They put in a plug on that ground lead to connect to a thermal sw in the forward end of the starter motor. Stops cranking when motor overheats… If you have one it will be plugged into a receptical on...

The oil returns thru its connection to the timing case where he drive gear is located. All compressors, like engines pass a certain amount of oil, a clogged intake/kinked hose can make this worse by deepening the vacuum during the intake stroke. What are you considering "oil contamination"...

Was this the pic you are referring to?

Disconnect the 2 small terminals at the aux start solenoid. One wire should have a short circuit/low resistance path to ground. The other wire should have 24V from K1 pin 87 when K1 energizes…

give us a shout when you get out to Olympic National Park in WA👍

Only seeing 1.8 v 30-87 but seeing 24v30-gnd at K1 does indicate a poor path to gnd thru the aux start relay on the frame…

Yep, plugging them in and out is fine and a valid coil function test. if k1 is energizing, beyond testing its contacts, all the rest of the in cab start circuitry is probably OK. You could rule out its contacts with a test jumper pin 30-87, which should crank the starter… K1 sends 24v down to...