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Could be something slipping...

Cool info. but just neat to know, as it is difficult to pin down absolutes(actual torque produced and multiplication factor) mid power band without adding some fancy instrumentation:) Where this becomes useful is when you reach a slope that takes you to the end, TC stall point near peak torque...

A 17,400# truck should require 3,021# of thrust to crawl up a 10* slope. With the 70/30 torque split in 2nd gear, thats,~453# for each front tire and 1057# for each rear tire. So 1057# times 1.942’ tire radius = 2053ft/lb on each rear axle, so 4106 total out of the rear diff, divided by a 3.07...

Ok, so left side PTO drive to the 2speed Dana Vdrive and back up to the pump over the transmission? I like it. What PTO drive did you use? Are you looking to use this while driving? If so, you may need to tweek the allowable PTO RPM limit settings in the TCU. Our local FD district where we...

I came across someone who had a driveshaft failure(non eco hub LMTV) that split the tube. He was able to measure the tube thickness and he came up with .134” wall thickness. That is the heavier of the two specced wall thicknesses, found on the #6500 peak torque version…

Ok, so nearly 10deg not 10%… be curious what engine RPM it takes to get you moving on that slope…

Yea y0u might get a brief(less than a second) current spike up to ~300A, but the average crank current should be down in the 150 ish area…

Ok, on that tune you are probably going to ramp pretty steadily from ~300ft/lb at idle to ~800 ft/lb at 1450RPM. Thats ~72 ft/lb of increase per 100 RPM. If you advance the pedal slowly and note at what engine RPM the truck starts to move, we can get an idea how much engine torque it is taking...

Uuuh, that label says 330HP?

I forget which engine do you have?

What Superman said, on the bellhousing just to the rear of the first fuel filter/primer is a tach that senses the 133 tooth flywheel ring gear. Is already connected into the wiring and wired up under the drivers dash and on into the center of the console…

Do you have a tach, and do you know your vehicle weight? RPM during that 2nd gear start up a 10% grade and your weight would give us an idea exactly how "strained" that type of a start is...:)

no, all the A1 trucks(green circuit board power panel or PDM boxes) have both 12v and 24v ignition relays located under the panel frame. your A1 has 4 bolt heads visible on the A1 panel, 12v batt, 24v batt, 12v ign and 24v ign. Myself personally I would do away with the PPD and put the diodes...

yea using a 24-12 converter mostly removes the need for the diodes. it in itself is polarity protected, so if 24v is hooked up backwards it wont output 12 anyway... On the A0, you need 12v to turn on 24v ign, so that only leaves the 24v circuits that receive batt power directly in potential...

Except that PMCS procedure skips a simple step... Read the ring around the primer pump. you need to pump the water/fuel out the bottom of the filter bowl using the primer, when you open that drain. if you open the bowl drain and it start sucking air into the bowl, that means your bypass...

Exactly, Most all manufactures provide polarity protection at the individual electrical modules, with diodes on their input, they simply will not flow current backwards... Do the systems in the LMTV do this? That is anyone's guess without some research and testing... LED lights wont work...

1. The A0 PPD is simply diodes and a heat-sync. the alternator does NOT go thru the PPD, it simply connects to the battery cables on the PPD 12 and 24v BATT terminals. The combined output of the ALT/BATT system(those 2 work together), passes thru the diodes to reach the main power panel. 2...

Well I imagine it would be similar to running them with standard size tires and 3.07 gears and I am aware of a few that are doing that. None have any issues I am aware of. The C7 and 3126 have a little lower peak torque RPM, so I do not think it will be a bad match, and a little under pk...

Thats the best way IMO, run a common straight 24v alt and use a converter from your 24v battery to feed the 12v loads.

Yes, except where he initially shows the wires initiating. The 2 + tetminals on tge 2 batts closest to the frame are 24v. The middle 4 terminals tied together(2+,2-) are 12v. Tge 2 - terminals farthest from.the frame are -/gnd. You are basically removing the forward 2 or rear 2 batteries......