Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Just for your peace of mind, I suggest pulling all 6 rod bearings. If you aren't dead broke, replace with new bearing shells. You have already got the oil pan off.
If the rod bearings look OK, shine a bright light at the wrist pins and piston skirts.
It's a possibility. An aside, be sure the water distribution tube behind the water pump is not rusted away. The #6 cylinder suffers if this item is bad.
I have reused a converter from a bad transmission by flushing well and using an external filter on the return line from the transmission cooler.
If you are poor, roll the dice.
It varies by the size of the journal as I remember. Find an older Motors Manual. It has information on plastigauge use and bearing clearances, maybe on the engine you are working on.
Your plan is good. After washing, treat the tank with Ospho or something similar.
Weld the tank back together and coat with GOOD tank sealer. You'll be golden.
See one of my previous post about sealing Jerry cans.
I know it will be a pain, but pull your starter and check the stroke of the solenoid fork. May be grunge or rust causing it to not move the pinion into engagement. If the truck will always start after a few tries, I'd live with it for now.
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!