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The 200amp kits were for v-belt trucks, not for A2 and above trucks, therefore they would not need to provide the additional cable because the truck is running a 3 speed transmission

me thinks it’s the 400amp equipped trucks that don’t have a clutch pulley…

nothing really safer bout it…it’s just to big and in the way, be sure to inspect that the rear cooling fan guard is NOT in contact with the body harness exiting the footwell fire wall, severe chafing will severe several critical wires!such as front lighting harness, CPS and temp sender wires.

you got lucky, because it could be the bolts holding the generator bracket on that broke off in the head, yours is just the bracket, ive done many While in the truck, it takes some skills, time and tools…easiest is to remove the generator and remove the Gen/PS bracket. note to all ECV owners...

the first picture of it looked like it was Torn up…most of the time, the impact bends the D-Beam

Actually, your D-Beam looks fine…NM

Long before HMMWV’s were cheap and GP was around

Your D-beam also needs to be replaced

You need to remove the 1/4 deck panal….I’ve done probably 50 fenders, both left and right.

It’s possible you sheared the internal pump shaft…you would have to open the top of the pump to get a visual

DCP pumps are not just the worst rebuilders in the pump rebuilding business, they shouldn’t be in business period. I have no less than 10 pumps sitting in my shop that can’t be used because they don’t know how to rebuild DB2 pumps. Customer service doesn’t exist and a warranty claim will take...

Just PM me…seems you have violated some BS rule about asking a question that someone else was somehow forced to answer? But woke them from their slumber perhaps…

ok, well….the rear evaporator fan won’t run till the compressor runs, the front will run regardless because it’s also the heater blower motor. Run 24v direct to you blower motor to test it…

Alignment, bad pitman and idlers arms, loose or worn rod ends, ball joints….get all of it inspected.

have you verified the circuit breakers are still in the truck? I had a truck where they were pilfered. they are in the battery box rear wall, there are 2 Klixon breakers on a bracket…

Check the wiring behind the instrument cluster

your beater/evap blower is a Engel power wire and a ground…if it’s not blowing, make sure the wire is connected, it’s on the evaporator mid way down on the left side.

It senses the temp coming off the evaporator coil, this will turn off and on the compressor when running so your system doesn’t freeze up… The thermostat with the white label is Mfg discontinued, the gold label is the correct replacement…it fixes issue of the compressor Running before the Gen is...

You only have to remove the 4 bolts holding the GFD CV on the engine side attached to the crank pulley coupler plate…

The injectors have a Bosch or Delphi part number on them, that’s what you are after, you can’t install purple or orange banded injectors into your motor, those are for 6.5NA and Turbo motor