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The Monroes are also 2" diameter shock bodies vs the 3" OEM body, iirc. Larger dia equates to larger compression/rebound/reserve chambers internally and thus the ability to dampen more weight. It is a pity that S&S/BAE didn't source a more common industrial shock size. As a result, you can...

Yet they always jump right back into the cab.

When I got my truck, I added an LED flood as a backup light (as well as a strobe and a industrial beeper). The flood light came as a pair, so the second one got tossed into the cab as an interior light. Works like a charm and I think I paid $12 for the pair on Amazon. ;)...

"I was hoping to be able to manually steer the truck when maneuvering it in my driveway. Is this feasible?" Zero chance steering by hand if stationary. But you can manipulate if (although only a very small amount) as it rolls. I had to (flat tow) push a parts truck back into a very narrow...

That reminds me, I've been trying to source the rubber plug(s) that go in the steering column. Seems like a pretty simple part, but I hit three local places and none had a viable fit. It's nothing special, just a rubber sheet metal hole plug. I thought I had seen them in the spreadsheet but...

Not sure what to make of this one. LOL

Austin needs to be "cleansed". of it's "Californication"...

Some things are well worth the cost !!!! Pity we'll have to nuke Austin....(by total accident, of course). But it had to be done....

As someone who lives, drives, camps on the coast in a high wind, salt spray environment where looking at something long enough you will see it rust...a spray bottle and some Ospho are your friend. Looking at that truck, a lot of the rust is surface rust and Ospho will kill that. It will help...

Just a guess, but if you have a 1998 M1079 the box would be 1998 as well. I'd guess the box you have now was added to the truck in a refit or repair/replace? The pump would not be on the truck if that were the case (if that chassis wasn't originally set up for it)..

I'm sure it was part of the OEM heater install for the trucks with the Arctic package.

No, it's just above the fuel tank. If you had it, you'd see it.

Remove it, bend it, reinstall? You can make it clamp tight.

My OEM heater is removed. The pump is still there, if that's what you want to see a pic of. But it's just a little electric fuel pump min a metal box mounted above the fuel tank.

I need to keep the option for reasons. And with the rear entry, I could put a step (incorporated into the 2" hitch) to use when the ladder is stowed (handy-af for Home Depot runs, etc)

Nope I hit the same snag with being able to brace it while extended (w/o welding the whole thing up in the extended position). I can make it work, but I'd lose the ability to retract the pintle. I thought about modifying the OEM pintle to slide all the way out to be completely removed. Then...

I tried some of the Amazon offers. Be sure to check the pinouts. Of the three I tired (that claimed to be compatible) all had different pinouts than the one I had gotten from Dearborn. So be sure to test the pinout. This is the one I got from Dearborn: DEARBORN PROTOCOL ADAPTER CABLE -...

Not sure about him, but most folks carry a small temp gun. You can get them off Amazon or at Horror Freight. Very inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/Sanliang-Thermometer-Adjustable-Emissivity-Temperature/dp/B0CH6LKBSZ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa...

No real images of the setup, but it's pretty self-explanatory as long as you have the same y-splitter I used (one in/two-out). First I severed the 24v pin on ONE of the y-splitter OUT ends (so one side will still get 24v to the kick panel for the actual diag tools). Sealed the live 24v wire...

I need to do my roof asap. I keep putting it off, but it needs to happen before I can return to the build out.